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  1. #281

    Of course yes, my little epiphany would only apply if dissolved sugars added zero volume. That's pretty fundamental. Damn. Thanks for bringing me back in line!
    Cheers,
    Lang
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    "Dudddde...Hold my beer!".... ; "I wonder what will happen if I ...."
    www.ginormity.com

  2. #282
    I'm considering a refractometer, what is the pitfalls pros and cons? Where to buy? Thanks in advance
    I value your experience more than your opinion Time is on your side, never rush a beer Have fun, its only beer

  3. #283
    Cringe. You brought my embarassing thread back to life.

    But onto the refractometer...

    Because it serves no real purpose as soon as the yeasties get going, my view is not to blow a lot of money on it.

    Super handy for quick density readings on brew day, with no long wait to cool containers of wort. Then during fermentation just use it to *monitor* changes in density without cognisance of the readings. Then verify the important/ final densities with hydrometer.

    I think I got mine on Bidorbuy or Takealot if memory serves me, for about R250-R300?

    Definately money well spent.
    Last edited by Langchop; 24th June 2019 at 15:15.
    Cheers,
    Lang
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    "Dudddde...Hold my beer!".... ; "I wonder what will happen if I ...."
    www.ginormity.com

  4. #284
    To add on to Langchops answer, a refractometer looses accuracy as soon as alcohol enters the equation and thus I would not rely on it to measure final gravity.

    So it depends on what you want, if you want to take lots of readings of your wort on brewday then it will help a lot, otherwise I am on the fence about it.

  5. #285
    Senior Member JIGSAW's Avatar
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    Beersmith allows you to use the refractometer reading during and after fermentation to calculate the corresponding hydrometer reading IF you know what the original SG was ... Im sure there must be calculators online also ....

    Screenshot_5.jpg

    so you dont need a hydrometer at all ... if you took the OG, you can get the FG
    The Problem With The World Is That Everyone Is A Few Drinks Behind.!


  6. #286
    Quote Originally Posted by JIGSAW View Post
    Beersmith allows you to use the refractometer reading during and after fermentation to calculate the corresponding hydrometer reading IF you know what the original SG was ... Im sure there must be calculators online also ....

    Screenshot_5.jpg

    so you dont need a hydrometer at all ... if you took the OG, you can get the FG
    Meeeeh. I have always been weary of that. I would be interested to hear if anyone has used this and done hydrometer comparisons. From what I understand its based on some very iffy assumptions and empirical values and trends. This is also kind of what your pre and post fermentation readings look like (ignoring the new/ old coolant labels):

    refractometer_reading.jpg

    Having said that... A lot of the time I dont even bother checking FG as I know from OG the ABV cant go be any higher than a certain amount.
    Cheers,
    Lang
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    "Dudddde...Hold my beer!".... ; "I wonder what will happen if I ...."
    www.ginormity.com

  7. #287
    Personally I prefer using a hydrometer. When a started brewing I took between 4 - 5 hydrometer readings. Now I take only 2, once wort is cooled just before pitching and when fermentation is close to complete or completed.
    From what I read there is corrections factors and extra calculations especially when wort is fermenting, the couple of hundred mills of wort/beer used for hydrometer readings is worth it, but then I still grind my malt by hand, so eveyone to his way.
    I beleive it is personal choose what you want to use, there is no rong or right method.
    Everyone must beleive in something, I beleive I'll have another beer

  8. #288
    Thanks for all the inputs, yes its to save time and the pita to take or cool a 150 ml hydrometer sample efery time you want to take a hydrometer reading.

    I take 3 Gravity readings throughout the batch. #1 post-mash SG and #2 OG at 0 min before/after I transfer to my no-chill cube and lastly #3 FG after fermentation.

    I use the post-mash SG to determine mash efficiency and to determine if I'm on track to hit the predicted OG as determined by my efficiency setting 75%.
    With the post-mash SG reading and post mash volume known it is very easy to calculate boil off volumes, make boil length or top up adjustments and to accurately hit my predicted OG.

    (For the past 15 batches I have been off by a avg of 1.005 of the predicted mash gravity on BS (I need to improve consistency in mashing efficiency) but by making minor adjustments I have been able to be low by a avg of only 1.000.7 of the predicted OG post boil.

    That's provides for a fairly consistent product when you can be 98% accurate on hitting your OG target.
    If you have OCD why not use it for something useful )

    After fermentation with the OG and FG known I read it into BS alcohol % calculator anyway, might just as well use the refractometer readings and read it into the refractometer alcohol % calculator that allows for alcohol at the end.
    Last edited by Harhm; 25th June 2019 at 12:45.
    I value your experience more than your opinion Time is on your side, never rush a beer Have fun, its only beer

  9. #289
    This weekend after transfering my beer to a keg, I had some beer left in the fermenter, so filled up one and a half bottles.

    Worked out how much sugar to put in for 440ml and without thinking put the same amount into the second, half filled bottle.

    Im a little disconnected from the science of what will happen here....

    A. Will the excess carbon dioxide be compressed into the the larger 'headspace' and carbonation likely be okay or even low, or

    B. Will the excess priming sugar plain and simply mean its a foamer on its way?
    Cheers,
    Lang
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    "Dudddde...Hold my beer!".... ; "I wonder what will happen if I ...."
    www.ginormity.com

  10. #290

    I'm guessing your beer will be carbonated. More headspace means less CO2 in the beer, more in the headspeace, I'd guess.

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