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First brew: Brewing a severely "expired" kit

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  • First brew: Brewing a severely "expired" kit

    Good morning ladies and gents. As per my intro, I recently came about a full brewing kit (one of those starter kits, like this one). It's not ideal, I agree, but for me as a starter I think it's a great way to get used to the brewing process, including the attention to detail (like cleaning and sanitizing). I aim to go full grain in the near future. Anyway, back to topic.

    I got a kit. In this kit were two "batches" of beer, in the form of extract tins and malt extract (the dextrose "beer enhancer" like they're called). The two variants are both from Mangrove Jack's, the first being their Bavarian Wheat tin and matching malt extract bag (1kg), and the other being their Munich Lager and matching extract bag (1kg). I checked the dates on these kits, and found that the Bavarian Wheat one is the oldest. The malt extract bag expired in November 2017, and the extract tin had an expiry date on it as January 2016 (or sometime around there, not 100% sure anymore). The yeast had no date on it, but I suspect it has "expired" a long time ago as well.

    So I did some reading online on plenty of places, and since it is expired and I got it for free, the general consensus was "go for it". So I went for it. My process was as following:

    1. Cleaned and sterilized the fermentation vessel, PROPERLY. It was very dusty and dirty all over (since it's been lying in a cupboard for so many years), so I cleaned it, inside and out, and then sanitized it with the no-rinse sanitizer. Tapped off some of the sanitizer and also cleaned the brewing spoon, a new cloth and the hydrometer (and tube).

    2. Took the fermenter to the local water shop (Simply Water) and had them fill it to the 23l mark. This water is purified, with reverse osmosis and then ozonated, so it's pretty much free of funky stuff. When I got home, I tapped off 5l of that water (to use), and stuck the fermenter in the deep freezer for a couple of hours to get the water temp down.

    3. After waiting a bit, I placed the tin in a pot of boiling water. In another pot, I placed some of the tapped off clean water (boiling), and added the malt extract. I had to heat it up and keep it very hot (but not boiling) for about 20 minutes, since the dextrose clumped together and I was basically sitting with a 1kg chunk of sugar that I had to dissolve.

    4. When the extract was dissolved, I opened the extract tin. I might add, I had to open it with my damn Leatherman because the tin is too big to go into our electric tin opener (and we don't have a manual one). Poured in the extract from the tin, poured some hot water into the tin to get out all the extract and mixed it all in.

    5. When it was properly mixed together, I took the pot off the stove and placed it in an ice bath in a basin. I left it in there for about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally to ensure it cools down evenly.

    6. When it was cool enough to touch, I took the fermenter out of the deep freezer, dumped in the extract mix and mixed it properly. I stuck the thermometer to the side of the fermenter, topped up to the 23l mark with more cold water and waited for a few minutes for it to stabilize. 22°C. Good enough.

    7. I pitched the yeast, and stirred vigorously to introduce some oxygen into the mix. Screwed the lid on the fermenter and tried to fit the air lock - nope. Won't fit. Great.

    Dug up my mead-making air lock, found it's slightly smaller than the included air lock from the kit. Sterlized and test-fitted it. Perfect fit. Poured sanitizing solution in the air lock and put it aside. Through the tap I tapped off half the test tube of wort. Dumped in the hydrometer and got a reading dead on 1.040. Checked the instructions and they said to add 0.014 for every 2°C the wort's temp is over 20°C. Got my Original Gravity - 1.054.

    Took the fermenter, stuck it in the back of a cool kitchen cabinet (only one I could find that would fit the fermenter), placed the damp cloth over it and packed the cabinet with ice. 12 hours later the bubbling started, and a nice krausen was on the top a day later, with constant bubbling through the air lock. Temps are steady at 22°C, and I replace the ice blocks in the cabinet 3 times a day. Today marks Day 4 for the fermentation (will be 96 hours at 15:30 today).

    In the mean time, I have been looking at storage options. I obviously would ideally want to keg, but kegging equipment is hellishly expensive. I don't have the world's most space in fridges/freezes either, so if I do keg, it'll probably be those 5l party kegs, at most. Anyway, since I do have a capper and a bag of caps, I decided to bottle the first batch. Yesterday my box of bottles from BrewCraft arrived (my brother picked up for me in Centurion), so I have 48 x 440ml amber bottles now. Should be enough for initial bottling, since I do have a few Grolsch flip-tops at home as well I'll use as well.

    Now, this marks my progress so far. I have very little bad smells coming off the fermenter, with the smells that do come off reminding me a lot of just plain fermenting beer. Doesn't smell bad, just like it should, I guess. I don't mind the smell at all, so it can't be bad.

    On to questions, though, if I may?

    1. What are the chances that this brew would be "off"? I tasted the tin's contents before doing anything, and it tasted sickly sweet, almost like molasses, with a bite of bitter in the finish. Not bad at all, I guess like concentrated beer?

    2. The instructions say the following: When air lock activity dies down, take hydrometer readings. When it's stable for two days, pitch the finings, wait another day and bottle. Now, I read up on other forums as well as bit and one oke pointed me to an article that says I should rather wait with the finings, and that I should leave the beer on the yeast for another week. Apparently, the article claims this forces the yeast to "smooth out" some of the flavours in the beer. It allows the yeast to consume some of it's own (negative) by-products it dumped in the beer, and will result in a better beer. Now, while I would like a better beer, I'm an impatient man (this is learned with the mead making thing), and I would really like to bottle ASAP (specially since it's my first brew). Suggestions?

    EDIT: Holy crap, wall of text! My apologies, didn't know it would be this big... O.o
    Toxxyc
    Senior Member
    Last edited by Toxxyc; 16 January 2018, 09:09.

  • #2
    Once again, Welcome. I've actually gave some feedback over at the MyBB forum. Im sure this beer will turn out perfect even if expired products were used.

    Enjoy the "hobbie" and an empty wallet

    EDIT:
    Checked the instructions and they said to add 0.014 for every 2°C the wort's temp is over 20°C. Got my Original Gravity - 1.054.
    This point is a little weird for me? ... 2ºC will not move your SG from 1.040 to 1.054 ?? ... 1.041 maybe if even that much

    HERE are some calculators that might come in handy in the future.
    JIGSAW
    Senior Member
    Last edited by JIGSAW; 16 January 2018, 10:20. Reason: see edit
    The Problem With The World Is That Everyone Is A Few Drinks Behind.!

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by JIGSAW View Post
      This point is a little weird for me? ... 2ºC will not move your SG from 1.040 to 1.054 ?? ... 1.041 maybe if even that much
      I'll take a look. Very possible that I misread the 0.014 to be added (which I also thought a bit high at the time, but since I'm John Snow I just went with it), and it should be 0.0014, meaning the OG would be 1.0414?

      Thanks for that link, I'm bookmarking it!

      Comment


      • #4
        OK so I slept on it. I want my first beer to be a success - definitely. If it's not, it's going to put me and everyone who's to taste it, off. I'm already using a severely expired batch of ingredients, so there's no use in bottling too early. Fermentation is slowing down now, and I'm getting about 1 bubble every second as opposed to 4~5 a second through the air lock. The smell it's giving off is VERY nice - sweet, clean and inviting. Temperature is still stuck between 20°C and 22°C (both blocks are coloured on the thermometer), and the fermenter is cool to the touch. So that's all just plain perfect. When the fermentation stops I'll be giving it another week, meaning I'll probably move to bottling next weekend. Can't wait!

        Regarding the hydrometer - yes, I misread the sliver of paper in the tube. My Original Gravity should be corrected to 1.0414, so that's what I'm noting it down as. On that topic though, I thought of something last night. We take hydrometer readings before bottling, and that will be the final gravity (FG) of the beer. The FG and the OG is then used to calculate the alcohol content of the beer, this I'm aware of. HOWEVER, when bottling, you drop in some finishing sugar. That finishing sugar is fermented by the residual yeast in the beer, and that produces the CO2 that carbonates the beer. Now, that should ALSO increase the alcohol content of the beer, shouldn't it? Or is that so low that we leave it out of the calculations?

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        • #5
          To my knowledge, you are right. It does increase the alcohol content of your beer slightly.

          Comment


          • #6
            I'm sure your 1st beer will be fine although it was brewed with pre-mature ingredients.

            I have received lots of good brewing advice from different people and one was to never rush a beer, not even in drinking it. Save a few to drink every week for 2 months or so to see how the beer improves with time.


            @ 7g/litre of sugar for carbonation the alcohol increase would be in the vicinity of 0.4%
            Harhm
            Senior Member
            Last edited by Harhm; 17 January 2018, 10:07.
            2017 SANHC-Finals-German Pilsner.2019 Academy of Taste-1st Lager +1st Overall-German Leichtbier.2019 Free State Fermenters-1st Place-Australian Sparkling Ale.2019 SANHC-Final Round-German Leichtbier.2020 SANHC-Top 5-EishBock.2021 SANHC-Low Alcohol Cat: 2nd-2%Lager, Over All Cat: 2nd-Schwarzbier.2022 Free State Fermenters-1st-American light Lager.2022 Fools and Fans National Competition-Top 5-Dunkles Bock

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Harhm View Post
              I'm sure your 1st beer will be fine although it was brewed with pre-mature ingredients.

              I have received lots of good brewing advice from different people and one was to never rush a beer, not even in drinking it. Save a few to drink every week for 2 months or so to see how the beer improves with time.


              @ 7g/litre of sugar for carbonation the alcohol increase would be in the vicinity of 0.4%
              Pre-mature ingredients...? Don't you mean post-mature? I mean it's waaaaaay old... :P I'll be using carbonation drops - 1 drop per 440ml bottle until the drops are done, and then I'll double-prime some bottles to see if I like more or less carbonation. There's around 60 drops in the pack, and I have 48 bottles, so 12 bottles are being double-primed. Will this be an issue (read: bottle bombs)? They recommend 1 drop for 330ml bottles and 2 drops for 600ml bottles, so I guess using two drops for 440ml bottles will be fine? I'm not too keen on using carbonation drops in the future still - I would like to move away from them an move toward using dextrose instead (or any other cheaper sugar).

              Comment


              • #8
                1 drop in a 440 is already high enough dont doubble drop in a 440 ml you will end with foam and just waist your beer. You can also use 1 drop in a 330 and 2 Drops in a 750ml if you want to experiment with different carbonation levels. Rather weigh some of the drops to get a idea what you are working with ito grams per drop. Have a look here.
                Harhm
                Senior Member
                Last edited by Harhm; 17 January 2018, 13:12.
                2017 SANHC-Finals-German Pilsner.2019 Academy of Taste-1st Lager +1st Overall-German Leichtbier.2019 Free State Fermenters-1st Place-Australian Sparkling Ale.2019 SANHC-Final Round-German Leichtbier.2020 SANHC-Top 5-EishBock.2021 SANHC-Low Alcohol Cat: 2nd-2%Lager, Over All Cat: 2nd-Schwarzbier.2022 Free State Fermenters-1st-American light Lager.2022 Fools and Fans National Competition-Top 5-Dunkles Bock

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Harhm View Post
                  1 drop in a 440 is already high enough dont doubble drop in a 440 ml you will end with foam and just waist your beer. You can also use 1 drop in a 330 and 2 Drops in a 750ml if you want to experiment with different carbonation levels. Rather weigh some of the drops to get a idea what you are working with ito grams per drop. Have a look here.
                  Got it, thanks. I checked that thread just now and it confirms your point (mostly because you posted there a while ago already on the same). I also checked the drops packet I have - 1 drop per 440ml would be just fine. I also saw the prices on these drops just now - are they really THAT expensive? It's like 10 times the cost of just plain dextrose for the same "volume" - why do people really still use it? O.o

                  On batch priming - if I would like to prime the entire batch at once, would it be needed for me to siphon/tap off into a secondary fermenting vessel that can hold the volume to avoid me stirring up the yeast and sediment at the bottom of the primary fermentation vessel or would that not be an issue? If batch priming is so much more accurate, I might just try it...

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Toxxyc View Post
                    On batch priming - if I would like to prime the entire batch at once, would it be needed for me to siphon/tap off into a secondary fermenting vessel that can hold the volume to avoid me stirring up the yeast and sediment at the bottom of the primary fermentation vessel or would that not be an issue? If batch priming is so much more accurate, I might just try it...
                    Yes, there is a few ways to do it. Accuracy depends on hoe well your equipment is calibrated.

                    This is how I do it. Firstly I know "exactly" how much beer I have in a calibrated fermenter (trub excluded, experience will help also) Take the beer only volume i.e. 20 litres X 8g/l sugar = 160g of sugar needed. Boil and cool the 160g sugar in +- 200 ml water. Poor sugar solution into a sanitised bottling bucket (with a tap attached) carefully syphon or tap to the bottom of the bottling bucket so that you don't plash or aerate your beer, the swirling of the beer in the bottling bucket will mix the sugar and beer evenly. Close lightly and bottle

                    You can also carefully syphon or tap to a calibrated bottling bucket, determine the beer volume on the side, do the calculations, boil and add solution, stir gently and bottle.

                    You can also determine the beer volume in a calibrated fermenter, boil the sugar water, add carefully, stir lightly, wait a hour or 2 for yeast to settle and bottle out of the fermenter. Unfortunately you will nor get even mixing or very clear beer, you will also have lots of yeast on the bottom of your bottles.

                    PS. Read How to Brew by John Palmer
                    2017 SANHC-Finals-German Pilsner.2019 Academy of Taste-1st Lager +1st Overall-German Leichtbier.2019 Free State Fermenters-1st Place-Australian Sparkling Ale.2019 SANHC-Final Round-German Leichtbier.2020 SANHC-Top 5-EishBock.2021 SANHC-Low Alcohol Cat: 2nd-2%Lager, Over All Cat: 2nd-Schwarzbier.2022 Free State Fermenters-1st-American light Lager.2022 Fools and Fans National Competition-Top 5-Dunkles Bock

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Harhm View Post
                      Yes, there is a few ways to do it. Accuracy depends on hoe well your equipment is calibrated.

                      This is how I do it. Firstly I know "exactly" how much beer I have in a calibrated fermenter (trub excluded, experience will help also) Take the beer only volume i.e. 20 litres X 8g/l sugar = 160g of sugar needed. Boil and cool the 160g sugar in +- 200 ml water. Poor sugar solution into a sanitised bottling bucket (with a tap attached) carefully syphon or tap to the bottom of the bottling bucket so that you don't plash or aerate your beer, the swirling of the beer in the bottling bucket will mix the sugar and beer evenly. Close lightly and bottle

                      You can also carefully syphon or tap to a calibrated bottling bucket, determine the beer volume on the side, do the calculations, boil and add solution, stir gently and bottle.

                      You can also determine the beer volume in a calibrated fermenter, boil the sugar water, add carefully, stir lightly, wait a hour or 2 for yeast to settle and bottle out of the fermenter. Unfortunately you will nor get even mixing or very clear beer, you will also have lots of yeast on the bottom of your bottles.

                      PS. Read How to Brew by John Palmer
                      Pretty much what I thought, thanks. Will run with the carbonation drops for now, since I only have a single fermenter right now.

                      Back to the brew - yesterday I got home and, as I suspected/predicted, the fermentation has stopped. It is now completely done, the air lock is completely quiet and now I'm going to let it sit for what, a week, correct? Total time is was fermenting was 5 days, which is spot-on according to the instructions. I'm keeping the fermenter cool still, and the temps are still stuck between 20°C and 22°C, according to the thermometer. Quick Q - how accurate are these thermometers? I have a nicer one incoming (deep fry candy thermometer, will get a digital next month), but for now this is what I'm using:



                      Oh, and the air lock. The water level "sucked back" a little bit since I pressed on the side of the fermenter to see if I could move it slightly more back in the cabinet. It's not leaking or anything:

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I am sick at home, so I am not going to read the whole thread or post. I will answer the 2 questsion.

                        1.As mentioned in the welcome post, your beer will possibly have a metallic aroma and flavour. There is nothing you can do about it. It is a maliard reaction (heating) that takes place between sugar and amino-acid in the wort (the extract). The extract is concentrated wort. Once you add yeast to wort it is called beer.

                        2. Relax!!! In my experience I would recommend leaving your beer to ferment for 2 weeks. All beers (less than 1.100 in my experience) will be finished by then. The obvious part is that you have had to see some form of fermentation taking place! I do not take any readings until bottle/kegging day. I take a reading of the wort before I start, then I confirm it has fermented out.

                        Recommendation: I highly recommend reading How To Brew (4th ed) by John Palmer.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by AtronSeige View Post
                          I am sick at home, so I am not going to read the whole thread or post. I will answer the 2 questsion.

                          1.As mentioned in the welcome post, your beer will possibly have a metallic aroma and flavour. There is nothing you can do about it. It is a maliard reaction (heating) that takes place between sugar and amino-acid in the wort (the extract). The extract is concentrated wort. Once you add yeast to wort it is called beer.

                          2. Relax!!! In my experience I would recommend leaving your beer to ferment for 2 weeks. All beers (less than 1.100 in my experience) will be finished by then. The obvious part is that you have had to see some form of fermentation taking place! I do not take any readings until bottle/kegging day. I take a reading of the wort before I start, then I confirm it has fermented out.

                          Recommendation: I highly recommend reading How To Brew (4th ed) by John Palmer.
                          OK, I'll give you a TL;DR:

                          2017/01/12: Done the prep. OG 1.0414. Pitched the yeast dry as per instructions (not the best, I know, but hey).
                          2017/01/13 - 2017/01/17: Kept the fermentation bucket between 20°C and 22°C. Fermentation was alive, krausen was about 5cm thick in the vessel. Slowed down in the last day or two.
                          2017/01/17: Fermentation stopped. Air lock is dead quiet.

                          Now I have to wait it out till the 2-weeks mark is reached.

                          On the boiling part - I didn't boil the extract or wort or anything for any significant period of time. In fact, I more like heated a pot of water, dissolved the DME, added the extract tin, swirled it around to dissolve and long before boil I cold crashed and dumped it in the fermenter. The instructions didn't mention anything about boiling the wort at all, so I didn't. I read up a bit in the past few days and it seems like it's fine, since the LME is boiled to all hell at the factory anyway. True?

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Toxxyc View Post
                            OK, I'll give you a TL;DR:
                            Thanks. The meds that made me stay at home are starting to wear off, which is good, as it means that I read and respond to messages, but if the migraine returns then I have to take the meds again. Enough complaining from the old people

                            Originally posted by Toxxyc View Post
                            2017/01/12: Done the prep. OG 1.0414. Pitched the yeast dry as per instructions (not the best, I know, but hey).
                            2017/01/13 - 2017/01/17: Kept the fermentation bucket between 20°C and 22°C. Fermentation was alive, krausen was about 5cm thick in the vessel. Slowed down in the last day or two.
                            2017/01/17: Fermentation stopped. Air lock is dead quiet.
                            As I experienced and many other will agree, most fermentations are done in a week - excluding cold fermentetions, high OG, staggered additions or yeast issues. But relax and let the yeast settle out. The more of them on the bottom, the less there are in your beer.

                            Originally posted by Toxxyc View Post
                            Now I have to wait it out till the 2-weeks mark is reached.
                            I know this is hard, but it is not the hardest part by far! Wait till you have them bottled and you have to leave them in a cupboard for 2 weeks and THEY JUST SIT THERE!!! I recommend brewing another batch(es) as soon as possible, as your first batch will disappear!

                            Originally posted by Toxxyc View Post
                            On the boiling part - I didn't boil the extract or wort or anything for any significant period of time. In fact, I more like heated a pot of water, dissolved the DME, added the extract tin, swirled it around to dissolve and long before boil I cold crashed and dumped it in the fermenter. The instructions didn't mention anything about boiling the wort at all, so I didn't. I read up a bit in the past few days and it seems like it's fine, since the LME is boiled to all hell at the factory anyway. True?
                            Yes, No.
                            If the kit is already hopped, then you do not need to boil. If you are adding (more) bittering/flavour/aroma hops to the kit, then you need to boil.
                            The process on the kit is true, but there is "room for improvement".
                            LME and DME are clean and near sanitized. The sugar content is so high it kills bugs.

                            Cheers!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by AtronSeige View Post
                              Thanks. The meds that made me stay at home are starting to wear off, which is good, as it means that I read and respond to messages, but if the migraine returns then I have to take the meds again. Enough complaining from the old people


                              As I experienced and many other will agree, most fermentations are done in a week - excluding cold fermentetions, high OG, staggered additions or yeast issues. But relax and let the yeast settle out. The more of them on the bottom, the less there are in your beer.
                              Hope you feel better soon, man. Migraines are not to be scoffed at (specially in this heat). I'm going to let it all settle out - will ask more questions on adding the finings and cold crashing a bit later (closer to the time).

                              PS: Would it be smart or REALLY stupid to open the fermenter at this time to see how clear or nice the beer looks? The fermenter isn't perfectly clear and the beer inside looks A LOT darker in colour than it should be...

                              Originally posted by AtronSeige View Post
                              I know this is hard, but it is not the hardest part by far! Wait till you have them bottled and you have to leave them in a cupboard for 2 weeks and THEY JUST SIT THERE!!! I recommend brewing another batch(es) as soon as possible, as your first batch will disappear!
                              Yes, my plan is on getting the second brew can (I got two of these expired "kits") in the fermenter ASAP. The one that I have remaining is a Munich Lager, so I'm REALLY hoping that I can get it cold for a long period to really smooth out the flavours. Not looking forward to the "metallic taste" you mention in either batch, but I'm a novice beer drinker (by taste, no volume), as are all my friends, so I hope that it might go unnoticed to most of us at least. Still, it's free beer, so how bad can it be? :P

                              Originally posted by AtronSeige View Post
                              Yes, No.
                              If the kit is already hopped, then you do not need to boil. If you are adding (more) bittering/flavour/aroma hops to the kit, then you need to boil.
                              The process on the kit is true, but there is "room for improvement".
                              LME and DME are clean and near sanitized. The sugar content is so high it kills bugs.

                              Cheers!
                              The kits I have are pre-hopped, yes. No additional grains or anything needed (for the upcoming Munich Lager as well). Good to know I don't have to boil, but just dissolve as needed. It's good news, since my kit is small. Largest pot I have access to is an old pressure cooker, and it holds only 10 liters. Not too little, but not enough for me to go full-grain yet either, it seems. That is, unless I can sparge/mash the grains in a full-grain brew in smaller quantities...?

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