Is my beer infected?

[Stevo Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Stevo]

I just did a All grain brew about 6 days ago, i would like to think i was extremely sanitary, however when i check on the fermenter the morning after i pitched the yeast i saw that the lid of my plastic bucket had popped up a bit so i clamped it down and the airlock continued to bubble for 4 straight days vigorously. It stopped bubbling yesterday and today i did a dry hop and found this , which im a bit concerned about as my prevoius brews didnt have these bubbles? what do you think, is it infected? P.S i need help posting the attached picture

[JIGSAW Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close JIGSAW]

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[JIGSAW Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close JIGSAW]

Here you go ....

00B77696-B0C2-4B78-ADDB-F4EBAC0C1CF1.jpg


.... and NO, it doesn't look infected ... perfectly fine and should settle out if you can cold crash after the DH period, otherwise don't stress

[Wayne Merrifield Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Wayne Merrifield]

May I ask what is the purpose of adding the hops after the fermentation? Or rather why AND how much? This is a step I've net seen in any of my previous recipies.
P.S. Sorry to post this on your thread.

Here you go ....

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.... and NO, it doesn't look infected ... perfectly fine and should settle out if you can cold crash after the DH period, otherwise don't stress

[groenspookasem Banned Find all posts View Profile Close groenspookasem]

does not look infected, perhaps krausen? also when dryhopping, try to get the hops submerged, hoptube or hopsock with a s/steel marble to drown them well. i haven't dry hopped in a while, but my gumballhead will be getting the treatment in a few days. Top cropping tonight and fermentation should be done by tomorrow, stranda kicked off a few hours after pitching and is going berserk at 30C. I then get to add 50g Amarillo in primary, fine & filling my last keg soon. It's been a while since my kegerator was fully occupied

[Toxxyc Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Toxxyc]

Hi Wayne, it's called "dry hopping". It increases the hop flavour and aroma without increasing the bitterness. How much you should add depends on what you aim to achieve with the dry hopping, and not all hops are suitable for dry hopping. You would usually dry hop according to the beer type you're making, and then choose a hop with a flavour profile you're wanting in your beer.

[groenspookasem Banned Find all posts View Profile Close groenspookasem]

May I ask what is the purpose of adding the hops after the fermentation? Or rather why AND how much? This is a step I've net seen in any of my previous recipies.
P.S. Sorry to post this on your thread.

Hey Wayne, It's called dry hopping - to impart rich aroma into your beers amongst other things. Hop flavor is exctracted by isomerization (during the boil), doing a dry hop removes the heat from the process and allows to impart another facet of the hop top your beer. Some do it in Primary, some rack to secondary, some dryhop in the keg - different approaches, fairly similar results.

[JIGSAW Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close JIGSAW]

May I ask what is the purpose of adding the hops after the fermentation? Or rather why AND how much? This is a step I've net seen in any of my previous recipies.
P.S. Sorry to post this on your thread.

Two previous posts have answered correctly, but here is something to read if you're still not sure.

@ groenspookasem ... submerging the hops is actually not necessary and I have not done it myself, as the hops absorb the beer quite quickly and sink within hours, especially pellet hops that most of us use.

[groenspookasem Banned Find all posts View Profile Close groenspookasem]

Theoretically a large loose dry hop could stall fermentation for something like neipa, those could drop the yeast out of suspension. The Burton IPA I made had that issue, so I use the hop tube, but on the flip side utilization could be questioned? Different methods fairly similar results and all that.

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[jakeslouw Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close jakeslouw]

Dry hopping works better in the later phases of fermentation, after krausen, otherwise the CO2 tends to bubble off a lot of the aromatics. And you don't have to worry about the CO2 collecting on the hops pellets and lifting them up to the top of the beer.

And that beer looks fine, now stop opening the lid and letting air in............

[JIGSAW Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close JIGSAW]

It's an old post guys .... Im sure his drank that brew already

[Langchop Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Langchop]

It's an old post guys .... Im sure his drank that brew already

He hasnt said much since this post... Maybe it WAS infected

[Guest Close AtronSeige]

Commercial breweries suggest not exceeding 10g : liter, otherwise you might end up with grassy notes.

However, there are many breweries (and home brewers that exceed that). Personally I have done nearly 500g to 18 liters. I would not suggest such a load, as this made the beer very expensive, and it tasted like licking the inside of a lawnmower.

[groenspookasem Banned Find all posts View Profile Close groenspookasem]

Licking the inside of a lawnmower is not advised, not quite a lawnmower beer! I prefer to stick around max 100g in the dry hop, between 50 and 70 being the sweet spot. I'd much rather have a massive 5min burnout to really extract the goodness in the boil. My last brew I did a 100g of Amarillo on 5m. With a paltry 10g magnum on 30m to kick the ibu to around 30. 50g Amarillo in the dry hop completed the recipe. I was out of galena which is my goto apa juicy bittering hop. Magnum is usually reserved for ipas, a clean zinger.

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