Clearout Brews

[BeerHolic Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close BeerHolic]

I have just been reading up to check my calcs and theories and info. There seems to be widely differing views of what "efficiency" is throughout the world!:


https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/t...ciency.288534/

Read the forum thread, yes I see what you mean.
I decided soon after starting all grain to keep it simple.
I only calculate my effeciency after chilling the wort. I do no other effeciency calculations.
I could do effeciency calculations at different stages of the process to see where one can improve.
Not bothered I am quite happy with my effeciency.

[JIGSAW Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close JIGSAW]

I have just been reading up to check my calcs and theories and info. There seems to be widely differing views of what "efficiency" is throughout the world!:


https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/t...ciency.288534/

I think you should only read that if you DON'T want to learn anything about efficiency

My head started to hurt and I needed a beer after reading a couple of post, so I gave up.

[groenspookasem Banned Find all posts View Profile Close groenspookasem]

I've been ignoring efficiency, 1kg fermentable malt = 1.010 points. I'm usually 1.002 or 1.003 brix points out if I'm out, otherwise on the numbers. I don't really care for such small margins too much.

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[JIGSAW Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close JIGSAW]

I've been ignoring efficiency, 1kg fermentable malt = 1.010 points. I'm usually 1.002 or 1.003 brix points out if I'm out, otherwise on the numbers. I don't really care for such small margins too much.

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You mean .002-.003 Gravity points? .....

1 brix point = ± 4 gravity point

[Langchop Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Langchop]

I've been ignoring efficiency, 1kg fermentable malt = 1.010 points. I'm usually 1.002 or 1.003 brix points out if I'm out, otherwise on the numbers. I don't really care for such small margins too much.

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I like that. Means you can think up a recipe just while standing in the shower.

[groenspookasem Banned Find all posts View Profile Close groenspookasem]

You mean .002-.003 Gravity points? .....

1 brix point = ± 4 gravity point

you know what i mean

[Langchop Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Langchop]

I've been ignoring efficiency, 1kg fermentable malt = 1.010 points. I'm usually 1.002 or 1.003 brix points out if I'm out, otherwise on the numbers. I don't really care for such small margins too much.

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You have piqued my curiosity now...so now you need to explain! I initially assumed the typical 36ish PPG of grain converted to your number at 10 PkgL, but it doesn't. So is this where that comes from?.....

Ave grain potential 36 p/p/g x 8.316 =299.4p/kg/L
÷20l batch size =15p/kg
X 67% eff =10p/kg

For me
÷15l batch size=20p/kg
X 50% eff = 10p/kg (conveniently and coincidentally works out the same-i like nice round metric numbers)

[groenspookasem Banned Find all posts View Profile Close groenspookasem]

No need too overthink it too much, if your base malt is good and you know your gear then not much to worry about.

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[Langchop Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Langchop]

longest wait for me with fermentation ever. 3 weeks versus my normal 'brew this weekend, bottle next weekend' pattern.

Activity has been stable for a while now at 6.0 brix At day 14 I did a 3 day diacetyl rest at 20 deg and then dropped down back to fermentation temp of 13 deg. I was going to add gelatine for 2 days before kegging, but decided that as my first 'lager' I wanted to see what lagering alone does for clarity.

On the tastes: Surprisingly watery tasting with not a lot of body, but perhaps that will evolve into the cripness of a pilsener. And regarding all the discussions around bitterness: Maybe that altitude effect on bitterness really is significant, maybe my hops were old, but it really doesnt taste that bitter.

IBU into fermenter calculated excluding altitude effect: 56.3 IBU
IBU into fermenter calculated including altitude effect: 35.1 IBU
BU:GU ratio (incl alt effect): 0.78

From my limited tasting expertise, I dont believe the IBUs are that high and similar probably to a hansa, so maybe this is veering closer to a german or even an american pilsener ito bugu ratio

Anyway, will probably keg it this weekend and started 'lagering' it, with regular tasters during the process. Not expecting it will last the lagering period, being just ~13L. Going to rely of Toxxyc's feedback on his warm vs cold 'lagered' bottles comparison.

[Harhm Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Harhm]

I cant believe you used the H word I would rather drink water. H only have about 21 IBU so things are out of wack for sure.

[Langchop Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Langchop]

I kept it lower case for a reason

[Langchop Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Langchop]

After 19 days in the fermenter, I finally got this kegged. All the sediment was pretty white thanks to no dry hopping. I think I got about 13.5L out of this in the end. A bit disappointing but will check everything more accurately next time to see what went wrong on efficiency.

Taste is pretty decent and clean tasting, I suspect that will lager and mature to a nice crispness. Although maybe a bit too much residual sweetness despite fermenting down to 1.007. Enough bitterness, not too much. Nothing near as clear as Toxxyc reported with his same yeast and similar ferment temps. In hindsight, maybe I should have used finings, but let's see what lagering does for me. I somehow like the challenge of getting a clear beer with no finings added throughout the process.

Because all the cool kids are doing it, I poured some of the sediment into a sanitised bottle which is now in the fridge. A question I have is, how do I know how much of that is even yeast and how much is just trub?

Another question I have is, what temperature do you set you keezer/kegerator/chamber at for lagering, and do you put the probe against the vessel or in the free air/bottle in the chamber? I understand you want to be as low as possible but you obviously don't want things to freeze, so I guess you find a trade off between risk and reward? I have currently set it to 2 deg. (I assume there is no real reason to do that gradual step down to lager temp)

[groenspookasem Banned Find all posts View Profile Close groenspookasem]

Keen to know if a long lager VS quick lager actually makes a difference.
Washing yeast from trub isn't too much of an effort. Boil and cool some water, mix with the trub, let it dit for a day or two in 'cold crash' you'll visually see the layers separate, there whitest bits are yeast.
Can't be comment on lager Temps, I do fast lager ferments at 16c for 7d and 29c for 3d,then cold crash fine and keg, ready when carbed

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[Langchop Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Langchop]

Keen to know if a long lager VS quick lager actually makes a difference.
Washing yeast from trub isn't too much of an effort. Boil and cool some water, mix with the trub, let it dit for a day or two in 'cold crash' you'll visually see the layers separate, there whitest bits are yeast.
Can't be comment on lager Temps, I do fast lager ferments at 16c for 7d and 29c for 3d,then cold crash fine and keg, ready when carbed

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I guess it's hard to tell unless you have a great memory of flavours between say week 2 and week 15 of lagering. Or can replicate the recipes precisely a few weeks later

Thanks, I will give the yeast a water top up and stir up and see what layers I get from there

[groenspookasem Banned Find all posts View Profile Close groenspookasem]

Apologies, I think I mixed you up with Jigsaw that also does quick lagering. If you dont have lots of hops in the trub, then you could reuse as is. I've done it with good success using 34/70 in pilsners, I found that the sooner you use the yeast the quicker the ferment starts, kinda obvious, but cool to see the almost immediate kick off