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Pitched my next fermenting under pressure batch. Blond with US-05 @ 22°C. Half @ 15PSI and half with no pressure.
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk2017 SANHC-Finals-German Pilsner.2019 Academy of Taste-1st Lager +1st Overall-German Leichtbier.2019 Free State Fermenters-1st Place-Australian Sparkling Ale.2019 SANHC-Final Round-German Leichtbier.2020 SANHC-Top 5-EishBock.2021 SANHC-Low Alcohol Cat: 2nd-2%Lager, Over All Cat: 2nd-Schwarzbier.2022 Free State Fermenters-1st-American light Lager.2022 Fools and Fans National Competition-Top 5-Dunkles Bock
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How much headspace are you running? The more I see pressure fermentation the more I'm keen! Keep it coming! How long do you ferment using 34/70 under pressure and at what temp? Thinking to do a quick lager at higher temperature under pressure, kveik spoiled me...
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Originally posted by groenspookasem View PostHow much headspace are you running? The more I see pressure fermentation the more I'm keen! Keep it coming! How long do you ferment using 34/70 under pressure and at what temp? Thinking to do a quick lager at higher temperature under pressure, kveik spoiled me...
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14 day total: 10 days fermentation 2 days cold crash and 2 days carbonation.
Sent from my SM-G930F using TapatalkLast edited by Harhm; 23 October 2019, 14:32.2017 SANHC-Finals-German Pilsner.2019 Academy of Taste-1st Lager +1st Overall-German Leichtbier.2019 Free State Fermenters-1st Place-Australian Sparkling Ale.2019 SANHC-Final Round-German Leichtbier.2020 SANHC-Top 5-EishBock.2021 SANHC-Low Alcohol Cat: 2nd-2%Lager, Over All Cat: 2nd-Schwarzbier.2022 Free State Fermenters-1st-American light Lager.2022 Fools and Fans National Competition-Top 5-Dunkles Bock
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Sounds like bliss Harm, I absolutely love 34/70 in a lager, but tend to push ibu into pils territory.
Right now I have a NZ Pils (kveik) on tap and am thinking that it would've been better with proper lager yeast. Munich and Melano forward with green bullet ( clean) bittering and a dash of Nelson Sauvin with Motueka (nz saaz) aroma. Superb beer, I'd say excellent taste, but lacking that crispness from lager yeast. Definite redo, might be my goto Pilsner actually...
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Originally posted by groenspookasem View PostSounds like bliss Harm, I absolutely love 34/70 in a lager, but tend to push ibu into pils territory.
Right now I have a NZ Pils (kveik) on tap and am thinking that it would've been better with proper lager yeast. Munich and Melano forward with green bullet ( clean) bittering and a dash of Nelson Sauvin with Motueka (nz saaz) aroma. Superb beer, I'd say excellent taste, but lacking that crispness from lager yeast. Definite redo, might be my goto Pilsner actually...
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Im looking for Kveik Oslo to try in a Lager, Voss is not clean enough imo
Yes 34/70 is a great yeast, my Go to Lager yeast for Lite Lagers and Pilsners for sure. Im currently carbing a Diamond Lager vs. S23 Lager and also a 34/70 vs. S23 Lager, will give feedback later.
Fermenting under pressure works great to minimise O2 exposure, you should give it a go
Sent from my SM-G930F using TapatalkLast edited by Harhm; 23 October 2019, 01:42.2017 SANHC-Finals-German Pilsner.2019 Academy of Taste-1st Lager +1st Overall-German Leichtbier.2019 Free State Fermenters-1st Place-Australian Sparkling Ale.2019 SANHC-Final Round-German Leichtbier.2020 SANHC-Top 5-EishBock.2021 SANHC-Low Alcohol Cat: 2nd-2%Lager, Over All Cat: 2nd-Schwarzbier.2022 Free State Fermenters-1st-American light Lager.2022 Fools and Fans National Competition-Top 5-Dunkles Bock
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Originally posted by Harhm View PostPitched my next fermenting under pressure batch. Blond with US-05 @ 22°C. Half @ 15PSI and half with no pressure.
Sent from my SM-G930F using TapatalkCheers,
Lang
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"Dudddde...Hold my beer!".... ; "I wonder what will happen if I ...."
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Originally posted by Harhm View Post
Who knows I might be doing no-chill in the keg and then do FUP in the same keg next
Any thoughts on how you would do this? The only potential complication I see is the hot wort contracting and sucking in air through the ball lock posts. Maybe a bar of CO2 pressure would work, without any ill effects?Cheers,
Lang
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"Dudddde...Hold my beer!".... ; "I wonder what will happen if I ...."
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Originally posted by Langchop View PostIm not sure how much tongue-in-cheek this was? It is definitely an interesting idea to explore though...
Any thoughts on how you would do this? The only potential complication I see is the hot wort contracting and sucking in air through the ball lock posts. Maybe a bar of CO2 pressure would work, without any ill effects?
A few ideas Im thinking about - Sealing the keg with low pressure CO2 with the following:
Gas in connector with a one way valve and a in-line filter.
Baloons filled with CO2 over the posts of the sealed keg.
Keg pressurised with low pressure and then keeping constant low pressure CO2 on it while cooling via regulator and gass source or a keg purged with CO2 at 10 PSI connected to the no-chill keg.
Wet sanatised cloth over the keg that was sealed with low level of CO2.
Another question would be if o-rings would be able to handle the heat. All my kegs are full of beer or fermenting now but a test with hot water would be the next step.2017 SANHC-Finals-German Pilsner.2019 Academy of Taste-1st Lager +1st Overall-German Leichtbier.2019 Free State Fermenters-1st Place-Australian Sparkling Ale.2019 SANHC-Final Round-German Leichtbier.2020 SANHC-Top 5-EishBock.2021 SANHC-Low Alcohol Cat: 2nd-2%Lager, Over All Cat: 2nd-Schwarzbier.2022 Free State Fermenters-1st-American light Lager.2022 Fools and Fans National Competition-Top 5-Dunkles Bock
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headspace and trub also something to consider for fermentation. you'd need to crack it open to pitch yeast and then have the ability to aerate your wort. how much time/effort would you gain vs possible beer volume loss?Last edited by groenspookasem; 24 October 2019, 16:32.
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Ok I can see you have given it some good thought!
Originally posted by Harhm View PostA few ideas Im thinking about - Sealing the keg with low pressure CO2 with the following:
-Gas in connector with a one way valve and a in-line filter. Nice. A naked post essentially acts like a one way valve as well, so maybe a filter squeezed on top of that could work?
-Baloons filled with CO2 over the posts of the sealed keg. I also considered this one but you made a good point about needing some notable pressure inside to seal the lid
-Keg pressurised with low pressure and then keeping constant low pressure CO2 on it while cooling via regulator and gass source or a keg purged with CO2 at 10 PSI connected to the no-chill keg. Basically creating 'artificial headspace' to take up the pressure? Nice idea, especially if keg is very full.
-Wet sanatised cloth over the keg that was sealed with low level of CO2.
Another question would be if o-rings would be able to handle the heat. All my kegs are full of beer or fermenting now but a test with hot water would be the next step.
The permissible operating temperature range of nitrile rubber is –40 to +100 °C (–40 to +210 °F). For brief periods, temperatures of up to 120 °C (250 °F) can be tolerated.Cheers,
Lang
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"Dudddde...Hold my beer!".... ; "I wonder what will happen if I ...."
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Originally posted by groenspookasem View Postyou may have a concave keg if your pressure isn't right and your o-rings/posts hold :-)
Originally posted by groenspookasem View Postheadspace and trub also something to consider for fermentation. you'd need to crack it open to pitch yeast and then have the ability to aerate your wort.
1. keg filled from kettle to couple of inches below lid.
2. Seal by whichever method for no-chill cooling step
3. Pressurise out some of the settled trub thought the dispense tube, while at the same time creating headspace for the krauzen. [Dont think you could realistically get a whole lot of trub out like this but maybe angling the keg could assist.]
4. Open lid, let air/ oxygen in and shake the shit out of it. repeat. Add yeast [Or connect filtered air line to the beer out post and bubble through the wort]
5. Add flap valve, pressure up to 0.5 bar, and go forth and FUP.
6. Dry hop if you must, with a hop sock.
7. Remove flap valve and connect up CO2 to force carb [Or pressure transfer to new keg to force carb/dispense]
[8.] Maybe rethink everything and go back to traditional methods?
Originally posted by groenspookasem View Posthow much time/effort would you gainCheers,
Lang
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"Dudddde...Hold my beer!".... ; "I wonder what will happen if I ...."
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Trub in a no-chill container is not a issue, I ferment in my no-chill cubes all the time.
I syphon out wort to create headspace, close, shake to airate and pitch yeast. I use extra cube lids with hole in it where I fit a rubber grommet and tubing for a blow off.
The wort I extracted to create headspace I use to make starters.
Im essentialy already doing it with a plastic cube all I need to do is use a corny keg.
A lot less exposure than a open kettle with a chiller and splashing wort in a bucket with a loose lid on it.
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