Originally posted by Chris S
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Originally posted by Chris S View PostJust looked at a review of the DTC 1200. The functions are exactly the same as the STC 1000. Main difference is the looks and the fact that you get a 12v DC version.
I'm in need of something else. For example if setting temp to 20c I would like it to switch on fridge compressor 20.5 and off at 20.2 for example.
I find currently even if the compressor switches off at 20c it will overshoot and temp will head towards 19.5 and then switch the heater on. It causes to much swinging in temp.
If anyone knows of something like this let me know.
https://www.brewpi.com/
Whats your setting like on the stc? Ill be honest I dont have such a detailed view of the temp like you but with a 10 minute delay it doesnt look like it switches othen, and I generally see a +-0,3 variance
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+1 If I have mine set to say 20º with a 1º differential in either direction, for the most it hovers around 20º ... takes forever to move between 19 and 21
Where is your probe attached ... It's weird that it drops so low so quick after the fridge went off?The Problem With The World Is That Everyone Is A Few Drinks Behind.!
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Originally posted by JIGSAW View Post+1 If I have mine set to say 20º with a 1º differential in either direction, for the most it hovers around 20º ... takes forever to move between 19 and 21
Where is your probe attached ... It's weird that it drops so low so quick after the fridge went off?
This will drop it to 19.5 and cause the heater to come on. Luckily it's winter so the fridge part only comes on once a day, mostly late afternoon
See attached pic. Everytime it hits 20.5 it will drop it to 19.5 like a roller coaster
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Originally posted by Chris S View PostMy probe is in a thermo well right done in the liquid. So by the time 40L drops to 20c the fridge is a lot cooler with ice already on the back plate.
This will drop it to 19.5 and cause the heater to come on. Luckily it's winter so the fridge part only comes on once a day, mostly late afternoon
See attached pic. Everytime it hits 20.5 it will drop it to 19.5 like a roller coaster
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Originally posted by SykomantiS View PostI think the problem here is that the liquid has a high heat capacity, so even though the environment drops below target, the liquid hasn't yet, causing your cooling circuit to stay active. What I did for the couple of times I used the fridge in our caravan (have a stand alone controller hooked up to an extension cord) was to simply let the probe check the environment temperature, not the liquid temperature.
I need to play with this. Might try a 0.3 degree difference instead of 0.5 and see if it holds a better range
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Originally posted by Chris S View PostMy probe is in a thermo well right done in the liquid. So by the time 40L drops to 20c the fridge is a lot cooler with ice already on the back plate.
This will drop it to 19.5 and cause the heater to come on. Luckily it's winter so the fridge part only comes on once a day, mostly late afternoon
See attached pic. Everytime it hits 20.5 it will drop it to 19.5 like a roller coaster
and the best was insulated against the side.. he had the same experience with the thermowell that you had it dropped way to low by the time the beer changed temp.. the thermal mass of the beer is too much
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I have my STC probe stuck to the outside of my fermenter with no heating gadget attached.. just the freezer chiller.. my freezer has a 'volume' knob on the outside, so I set it to mild freezing, so that when the freezer comes on, it doesn't go to -1000 in an instant, rather I think that it will get colder slower..
Then my STC is set for +-0.5°C variance with delay on 10mins.
Given I'm doing lagers currently in the freezer, fermenting between 9 and 14°CI don't need any heating at this stage.. yes probably need one if I want to do an ale at 18 ..20 .. but did a SAPA last couple week and found that CPT ambient temps and fermenters zipped in a sleeping bag, keeps the temperatures fairly constant - I can see on the thermometer strip stuck to the outside of the fermenter..
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Originally posted by Jitters View Postand the best was insulated against the side.. he had the same experience with the thermowell that you had it dropped way to low by the time the beer changed temp.. the thermal mass of the beer is too much
I work on a temp point around the mid-height of the fermenter. I use duct tape to attached the probe.
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Originally posted by Jitters View PostAhh That Explains it.. Some guy on Homebrewtalk did n bunch of expiriments with proble placement, he tested ambient, thermowell, in a can of water, and insulated against the side
and the best was insulated against the side.. he had the same experience with the thermowell that you had it dropped way to low by the time the beer changed temp.. the thermal mass of the beer is too much
I think a thermowell sensor is more for fermenters that have cooling coils inside the beer.
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Originally posted by Chris S View PostGoing back to my old method then of taping it to the side. Will see how temp behaves then.
I think a thermowell sensor is more for fermenters that have cooling coils inside the beer.The Problem With The World Is That Everyone Is A Few Drinks Behind.!
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I brewed a blonde ale. OG was 1.030, pitched yeast on tuesday 1 June and there is still activity in the airlock today. Used US-05. Now admittedly it has been a bit chilly over the last week, but I have never had a batch with an OG that low take more than 4-5 days before the airlock was silent. Trub layer is also a LOT bigger than usual. Does that sound right? I brewed in an urn for the first time versus usually using a gas burner and pot.
Just looking for some assurance that its not a wasted batch after being in the fermenter for 10 and a half days.There once was a man from Nantucket.
Who brewed his beer in a bucket.
He put the wort into there,
to cut down on the air.
Then drank it all up like a muppet.
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Originally posted by FriedPiggy View PostI brewed a blonde ale. OG was 1.030, pitched yeast on tuesday 1 June and there is still activity in the airlock today. Used US-05. Now admittedly it has been a bit chilly over the last week, but I have never had a batch with an OG that low take more than 4-5 days before the airlock was silent. Trub layer is also a LOT bigger than usual. Does that sound right? I brewed in an urn for the first time versus usually using a gas burner and pot.
Just looking for some assurance that its not a wasted batch after being in the fermenter for 10 and a half days.
Colder fermentations do generally take longer, so don't fret if it smells and tastes okay.
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