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  • Originally posted by Chris_za1 View Post

    Thank you. Updated recipe, comments? Anything else to recommend?

    The only other thing I might not find at brew store will be flaked barley...


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    I just saw now that you are trying to make a chocolate coffee stout. I would highly recommend adding some cocoa nibs. Chocolate malt doesn't give enough chocolate in my experience it gave me a slight aroma but none of the taste. Cocoa nibs is a cheap enough addition and well worth it.

    if you cant find flaked barley you can sub with chit Best Chit Malt - 1Kg – Brewcraft Chit malt is barely malted barley and can be used as a substitute they are not 100% but close enough. If someone with more knowledge can chime in that would be great. I sub them out but i cant realy identify what flaked barely adds to a beer.

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    • I doubt that flaked barley does anything special, but that's just me.............
      For head retention, we use pale wheat, same effect.

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      • Originally posted by Jitters View Post

        I just saw now that you are trying to make a chocolate coffee stout. I would highly recommend adding some cocoa nibs. Chocolate malt doesn't give enough chocolate in my experience it gave me a slight aroma but none of the taste. Cocoa nibs is a cheap enough addition and well worth it.

        if you cant find flaked barley you can sub with chit Best Chit Malt - 1Kg – Brewcraft Chit malt is barely malted barley and can be used as a substitute they are not 100% but close enough. If someone with more knowledge can chime in that would be great. I sub them out but i cant realy identify what flaked barely adds to a beer.
        Thanks for the tip. Same process as the coffee? So I would add them to Vodka and let them sit in fridge 24-48h and then rack on top? How much do you think I should add?

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        • Originally posted by Chris_za1 View Post

          Thanks for the tip. Same process as the coffee? So I would add them to Vodka and let them sit in fridge 24-48h and then rack on top? How much do you think I should add?
          They need to be roasted first. Check snypers thread for a how to on roasting the nibs. I did 100gr in the boil and 100gr in secondary. this again was for a RIS which is a way bigger beer. for you I think 100gr in secondary would be really good, nothing in the boil.

          Yes process is exactly the same as the coffee, or for anything else for that matter, Oak, vanilla etc. nibs are bit bigger than coffee but I still highly recommend filtering it out before adding it to the fermenter

          just fyi when extracting with alcohol your time frames become weeks not days for extraction. the longer you leave it the better it will become. I started my tincture a week before I had my brew day then left my RIS in the fermenter for a month and then only added my tincture, so basically 1-1/2 months before I added it.

          When you start adding coffee/chocolate it takes time for everything to meld and flavor to develop. it will start tasting better and better the longer you leave it in the bottle.

          Took a quick look here is the roasting article: Brewing With Chocolate: Tips From the Pros - Brew Your Own (byo.com) Do read it but here is the process I followed

          If you have nibs, you need to roast them a more gentle.
          • 350 °F (177 °C) for 10 minutes
          • 325 °F (163 °C) for 5 minutes
          • 300 °F (150 °C) for 5 minutes
          • 275 °F (135 °C) for 5-10 minutes or until done.

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          • Originally posted by Jitters View Post

            They need to be roasted first. Check snypers thread for a how to on roasting the nibs. I did 100gr in the boil and 100gr in secondary. this again was for a RIS which is a way bigger beer. for you I think 100gr in secondary would be really good, nothing in the boil.

            Yes process is exactly the same as the coffee, or for anything else for that matter, Oak, vanilla etc. nibs are bit bigger than coffee but I still highly recommend filtering it out before adding it to the fermenter

            just fyi when extracting with alcohol your time frames become weeks not days for extraction. the longer you leave it the better it will become. I started my tincture a week before I had my brew day then left my RIS in the fermenter for a month and then only added my tincture, so basically 1-1/2 months before I added it.

            When you start adding coffee/chocolate it takes time for everything to meld and flavor to develop. it will start tasting better and better the longer you leave it in the bottle.

            Took a quick look here is the roasting article: Brewing With Chocolate: Tips From the Pros - Brew Your Own (byo.com) Do read it but here is the process I followed

            If you have nibs, you need to roast them a more gentle.
            • 350 °F (177 °C) for 10 minutes
            • 325 °F (163 °C) for 5 minutes
            • 300 °F (150 °C) for 5 minutes
            • 275 °F (135 °C) for 5-10 minutes or until done.
            Thanks Jitters. Becoming quite an expensive brew this one... I see I can get cocoa nibs from Dischem - https://www.dischem.co.za/health-con...xoCiusQAvD_BwE

            This will work?

            I don't have 1.5 months. Probably brew this in 2 week. so ideally start steeping somewhere this week.

            I would add them to my bottling bucket and immediately rack on top - or are you talking about transferring to secondary with nibs for extra couple of days before bottling?

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            • Originally posted by Chris_za1 View Post

              Thanks Jitters. Becoming quite an expensive brew this one... I see I can get cocoa nibs from Dischem - https://www.dischem.co.za/health-con...xoCiusQAvD_BwE

              This will work?

              I don't have 1.5 months. Probably brew this in 2 week. so ideally start steeping somewhere this week.

              I would add them to my bottling bucket and immediately rack on top - or are you talking about transferring to secondary with nibs for extra couple of days before bottling?
              the dischem link is exactly what you need.

              if you start this week by the time you get round to bottling nearly 1 month will have passed. It's close enough.

              you had the right idea with just racking on top and bottling, all I meant was that it takes time for the flavors to develop, try a bottle each week or month or whatever till you hit peak flavour.

              and yeah the adjuncts make this an expensive brew but well worth it. I did a oaked, bourbon, cocoa, coffee, vanilla RIS it's a monster at almost 15%abv. it's the most expensive brew I have ever made.

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              • Originally posted by Jitters View Post

                the dischem link is exactly what you need.

                if you start this week by the time you get round to bottling nearly 1 month will have passed. It's close enough.

                you had the right idea with just racking on top and bottling, all I meant was that it takes time for the flavors to develop, try a bottle each week or month or whatever till you hit peak flavour.

                and yeah the adjuncts make this an expensive brew but well worth it. I did a oaked, bourbon, cocoa, coffee, vanilla RIS it's a monster at almost 15%abv. it's the most expensive brew I have ever made.
                Thanks man really appreciate the input. Laast question on a different recipe, brewcraft doesn't have this yeast in stock, any recommendations what I can replace this with?







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                • White Labs WLP300?

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                  • Originally posted by jakeslouw View Post
                    White Labs WLP300?
                    They don't have any white labs unfortunately.


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                    • Originally posted by Chris_za1 View Post

                      Thanks man really appreciate the input. Laast question on a different recipe, brewcraft doesn't have this yeast in stock, any recommendations what I can replace this with?







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                      M20 Bavarian Wheat Yeast - 10g – Brewcraft

                      you can use that I think it's a rebrand of munich classic. I havent used m20 but did use Munich classic it threw clove/phenols for days, don't worry about the Sulphur it will off gas.

                      I can highly recommend open fermenting Wheat beers you want all that sulfur to off gas easily also be ready for a huge Krausen

                      and you have a very high risk of scorching if you direct fire your kettle so unless you have tested this before I would personally skip the protein rest. I burned out my element doing a hefe and step mashing from low.

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                      • Originally posted by Jitters View Post

                        M20 Bavarian Wheat Yeast - 10g – Brewcraft

                        you can use that I think it's a rebrand of munich classic. I havent used m20 but did use Munich classic it threw clove/phenols for days, don't worry about the Sulphur it will off gas.

                        I can highly recommend open fermenting Wheat beers you want all that sulfur to off gas easily also be ready for a huge Krausen

                        and you have a very high risk of scorching if you direct fire your kettle so unless you have tested this before I would personally skip the protein rest. I burned out my element doing a hefe and step mashing from low.
                        You going in a direction again.

                        Open fermentation? Is it really necessary here?
                        Protein rest / scorching? I have a g30 so don't think this will be a challenge as the mash profile is 2 step and then just 60min boil.


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                        • Originally posted by Chris_za1 View Post

                          You going in a direction again.

                          Open fermentation? Is it really necessary here?
                          Protein rest / scorching? I have a g30 so don't think this will be a challenge as the mash profile is 2 step and then just 60min boil.


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                          Haha, I did a shit ton of research and made a shit ton of hefe's before I got it right for my tastes. As I said in my system I burned out an element doing a step mash for a hefe so if you are sure you can step without burring the element or the bottom go for it.

                          Brewing Bavarian Weissbier - all you ever wanted to know | (braumagazin.de)

                          This is an exhaustive resource on everything you have ever wanted to know about hefe's. I had a very specific taste that I wanted to achieve and you need to ferment in a certain way to get the yeast to express the way you want.

                          if you just want a hefe then you can ferment like normal and it will still make beer, but you need to ferment a certain way if you want it to taste like it should.

                          I didnt even tell you about the best part. the 30 rule. If you want to ferment at lets say 17 then you need to pitch at 13 and let it free rise to 17.

                          Weissbier Hell - German brewing and more (braukaiser.com)

                          Good luck it's a fun style to get right
                          Jitters
                          Senior Member
                          Last edited by Jitters; 11 April 2022, 18:05.

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                          • Hey Jitters.. Thanks for sharing this
                            Planning on brewing a pale weiss sometime

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                            • A step mash on a GF30 isn't an issue. Done it before.

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                              • Originally posted by Jitters View Post

                                Haha, I did a shit ton of research and made a shit ton of hefe's before I got it right for my tastes. As I said in my system I burned out an element doing a step mash for a hefe so if you are sure you can step without burring the element or the bottom go for it.

                                Brewing Bavarian Weissbier - all you ever wanted to know | (braumagazin.de)

                                This is an exhaustive resource on everything you have ever wanted to know about hefe's. I had a very specific taste that I wanted to achieve and you need to ferment in a certain way to get the yeast to express the way you want.

                                if you just want a hefe then you can ferment like normal and it will still make beer, but you need to ferment a certain way if you want it to taste like it should.

                                I didnt even tell you about the best part. the 30 rule. If you want to ferment at lets say 17 then you need to pitch at 13 and let it free rise to 17.

                                Weissbier Hell - German brewing and more (braukaiser.com)

                                Good luck it's a fun style to get right
                                As per Jakes, step mash on G30 should be fine.

                                Regarding open fermenation, I read that you can still leave in fermentation fridge, but instead of closing bucket - just lay a piece of foil on top to cover.

                                Regarding pitching at 13 and rising to 17, I can manage the temps easily as fridge connected to PID.

                                I am gonna go for it, thanks for all the input!

                                EDIT: QQ - I don't need to remove the grains when step mashing and put back in? I can just mash in the same way I do and let the G30 manage the temps?
                                Chris_za1
                                Senior Member
                                Last edited by Chris_za1; 12 April 2022, 09:31.

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