Random small questions

[Shatter Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Shatter]

Hi, I got a ale extract kit and it started at 1.040, after 8 days it's at 1.023, about 3% abv. It's been there for the last 3 days, no activity from the airlock as well(possible leak). Fermenter is in a tub with water and aquarium heater. Temp during the day and night is around 17 - 18 deg. What to do? add more yeast, leave it for another few days and bottle if no change?

So I upped the temp to 20-21c for two days now, reading still at 1023 or 6 brix (4-5days in total), added extra yeast as well. Guessing all that's left to do is to add the finings, bottle the partly fermented beer and try again?

[groenspookasem Banned Find all posts View Profile Close groenspookasem]

You could gently rock the fermenter, I wouldn't bottle partly fermented beer, except if you enjoy the possibility of having bottle bombs. Your ceilings...

Kit yeast if usually rubbish, or so I've heard...

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[Langchop Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Langchop]

So I upped the temp to 20-21c for two days now, reading still at 1023 or 6 brix (4-5days in total), added extra yeast as well. Guessing all that's left to do is to add the finings, bottle the partly fermented beer and try again?

I might have missed something here, and sorry if thats the case, but the fact that you are quoting Brix as well..... are you using a refractometer to measure the gravity?

Not a problem in itself, it probably means you are fully fermented and its not fermenting further day to day and thus your readings are stable. However, the 1023 wont be an actual reading and you would need to use a hydrometer to get an actual SG reading. I typically get around the 5-6 Brix you quote when my beer is at an actual ~1.008, but that varies per beer type

[JIGSAW Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close JIGSAW]

I might have missed something here, and sorry if thats the case, but the fact that you are quoting Brix as well..... are you using a refractometer to measure the gravity?

Not a problem in itself, it probably means you are fully fermented and its not fermenting further day to day and thus your readings are stable. However, the 1023 wont be an actual reading and you would need to use a hydrometer to get an actual SG reading. I typically get around the 5-6 Brix you quote when my beer is at an actual ~1.008, but that varies per beer type

Nice observation

If that is the case, beersmith tells me he is stable at ±1.013

Screenshot_18.jpg

[Shatter Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Shatter]

I might have missed something here, and sorry if thats the case, but the fact that you are quoting Brix as well..... are you using a refractometer to measure the gravity?

Not a problem in itself, it probably means you are fully fermented and its not fermenting further day to day and thus your readings are stable. However, the 1023 wont be an actual reading and you would need to use a hydrometer to get an actual SG reading. I typically get around the 5-6 Brix you quote when my beer is at an actual ~1.008, but that varies per beer type

That was indeed the case, I'm using tools incorrectly . a bit of googling got me onto https://www.northernbrewer.com/pages...ter-calculator. I entered the start and end brix reading and it showed me the corrected final gravity reading that I have, which is around 1.014. Thank you for the assistance

[RudiC Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close RudiC]

You can safely use the Pure LME, likely much better result with that than with dextrose/dry enhancer

I did this when I was doing kits

+1 what Bomb said .... Those to packs together will make a much better beer than pic1 + dex

I will then use the LME. Thanks guys, much appreciated

[Rikusj Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Rikusj]

To the folks who cold crash - how worried should I be about oxygen getting in through the airlock during cold crashing? I'm using a 25l plastic bucket, so I don't have convenient way to seal off the bucket... I'm also not super confident in the bucket/lid's ability to withstand the vacuum that will be created.

I'm I overthinking the potential oxidation effects of 2 day cold crash?

[BushWanderer Member Find all posts View Profile Close BushWanderer]

I use the same set up. I keep my airlock in while cold crashing and have not had an oxidation problem yet.


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[Rikusj Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Rikusj]

That's great to hear! Thanks!

[groenspookasem Banned Find all posts View Profile Close groenspookasem]

depends on airlock, it could suck back the liquid in you a/l into your beer. blowoff tube is the way to go, mine's about 500mm in lenght

[Rikusj Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Rikusj]

depends on airlock, it could suck back the liquid in you a/l into your beer. blowoff tube is the way to go, mine's about 500mm in lenght

I have an s type one piece air lock, which I think aught to be fine from a suck back point of view. I've considered a blowoff tube. It's a great way to limit air getting back in, but I'm also concerned with sanitizer being sucked up the blow-off tube and into the beer. I don't really know how much of a vacuum is going to be pulled... how big are you batches / fermenter for a 50cm tube? Normal 20l batch to a 25l bucket type ratio?

[CaPunT Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close CaPunT]

I've had sanitizer suck back into my brews from my S type bubbler a few times before. Brews were fine.

I'd hate to have blow off liquid suck back though (Kveik brews can go nuts). I imagine a long enough tube and limited headspace would ensure this won't happen.

[JIGSAW Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close JIGSAW]

The vacuum isn't that great that it would suck up "liquid" from the blowoff bottle all the way up the blowoff tube.

In a normal airlock I suppose it could, but I've never had or seen this happen my side ... the suction isn't like sucking on a straw.

About the air/oxygen coming in, that should also not be much of a problem on homebrew scale as their is a layer of COČ on top of the beer that is heavier than OČ

That is were this type of setup might work .....

[Langchop Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Langchop]

Has anyone ever overcarbed a bottled beer and successfully released pressure just by slightly lifting the cap a few times? Answers may be anecdotal as I guess you never know 'how much' overcarbed you are.

I have a batch (may be infected but the taste still seem pretty good) where I have been trying that with one bottle, in hopes that I can tally how many 'releases' I do and then can do the same to the rest of the batch.

I have done this daily about 3 times for about 2 weeks on a room temp bottle, and still the carbonation seems as ferocious as ever (I release the pop of pressure and then let go as the foam forms and is about to hit the lid)

I guess in more technical terms.... How many volumes you reckon you release each time you release pressure in the headspace? (to atmospheric, I guess)

[Langchop Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Langchop]

The vacuum isn't that great that it would suck up "liquid" from the blowoff bottle all the way up the blowoff tube.

In a normal airlock I suppose it could, but I've never had or seen this happen my side ... the suction isn't like sucking on a straw.

About the air/oxygen coming in, that should also not be much of a problem on homebrew scale as their is a layer of COČ on top of the beer that is heavier than OČ

That is were this type of setup might work .....

That's where a pricked balloon/condom on the top works like a bomb as an airlock