Random small questions

[groenspookasem Banned Find all posts View Profile Close groenspookasem]

Thanks. My purpose is really around oxygen free transfer

of course - i forgot about that, you'd need less tha 10 psi of constant pressure to push out the sanitizer. i set to 10 but open close to just add enough top flush the sanitizer

[PearlJam Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close PearlJam]

of course - i forgot about that, you'd need less tha 10 psi of constant pressure to push out the sanitizer. i set to 10 but open close to just add enough top flush the sanitizer

Agreed, I don't think I use much. Just open the valve to fill the keg with pressure, then start the runoff, then probably one or two more quick opening of the valve thereafter for a topup of pressure

[Toxxyc Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Toxxyc]

Weight seems easy enough to check with. When this tank is empty I'll weight it and check empty weight.

Also seems like I'm on track with this whole thing. I think I did "waste" a bit. Thanks gents!

[JIGSAW Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close JIGSAW]

Weight seems easy enough to check with. When this tank is empty I'll weight it and check empty weight.

Also seems like I'm on track with this whole thing. I think I did "waste" a bit. Thanks gents!

Like I said, it should be printed (punched) onto the cylinder already.

[Toxxyc Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Toxxyc]

Yeah but that'll be probably with the lever valve and not the turn valve, no?

[JIGSAW Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close JIGSAW]

Yeah but that'll be probably with the lever valve and not the turn valve, no?

No, punched on the cylinder like this ...

Screenshot_12.jpg

they punch and measure that without any attachments

[Toxxyc Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Toxxyc]

Ineed, but how would I know what the attachments weigh?

[JIGSAW Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close JIGSAW]

Stop over-thinking everything

[RudiC Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close RudiC]

Did a brew yesterday in my urn with 3Kw element fitted with SCR think a 4000w. About ¼ of the boil it died. So I quickly bypassed it and continued.

I thought that it wouldn't last and was expecting it to happen since my first brew.

Would a REX C100 with SSR be a better option than the SCR? Or what would be best for controlling the boil intensity, cause that 3Kw element is strong. Maybe a higher rated SCR?

[Jitters Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Jitters]

Those are rated half the kw for continous use. You would need a minimum 6k for it to not give the ghost.

Also need a bit if ventilation to keep ot cool

[Toxxyc Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Toxxyc]

SSR + 500k Potentiometer + Inline Ammeter (optional).

SSR: https://www.botshop.co.za/product/so...ay-ssr-50a-ac/
SSR Heatsink: https://www.botshop.co.za/product/ssr-relay-heatsink/
Potentiometer: https://www.electronics123.co.za/500...5w-152316.html
Ammeter: Something like this: https://www.wish.com/product/5d351e8..._wcB&share=web


This is what I use. I also slipped a 12VDC power brick in the box with a 120mm computer fan to keep it all cool, as well as a toggle switch to turn the whole thing on or off. I still need to mount it in a decent case, but it works. Like a charm.

[RudiC Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close RudiC]

Those are rated half the kw for continous use. You would need a minimum 6k for it to not give the ghost.

Also need a bit if ventilation to keep ot cool

Ah that could be a problem. Just did a quick search and most local places seem to be out of stock on the 6000w ones, but I will search some more.

SSR + 500k Potentiometer + Inline Ammeter (optional).

SSR: https://www.botshop.co.za/product/so...ay-ssr-50a-ac/
SSR Heatsink: https://www.botshop.co.za/product/ssr-relay-heatsink/
Potentiometer: https://www.electronics123.co.za/500...5w-152316.html
Ammeter: Something like this: https://www.wish.com/product/5d351e8..._wcB&share=web


This is what I use. I also slipped a 12VDC power brick in the box with a 120mm computer fan to keep it all cool, as well as a toggle switch to turn the whole thing on or off. I still need to mount it in a decent case, but it works. Like a charm.

This looks like an option too, a bit more work, but an option for sure.

Is the SCR the best option for this job, or is there another better option? I can also import something if I can't find it locally although local would allow me to get it done sooner. To me the idea of the REX C100 with SSR sounds nice for the simple reason that it could get to strike temp without having to stand there and wait till it's on the right temp. If there is a better option I'd like to go that route and have this issue sorted permanently.

[Toxxyc Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Toxxyc]

Honestly you can use your STC-1000 in conjunction with the SSR and potentiometer, then you can forego the ammeter as well. Literally just wire the SSR up to the STC-1000 and stick the probe in the water (if it's waterproof). The STC will then power on and off the SSR, which will control the element. The potentiometer is used to control the power to the element.

[Jitters Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Jitters]

Personally for maintaining mash temps a proper PID with ssr would be the most reliable way to maintain mash temps. A scr I would use to control the boil intensity only.

But to each his own alot of guys use stc-1000 to maintain mash temps.. I did it before I built my PID, it works ok but it always overshot temp by about 2-3 degrees when I had grain in.

Check Rikus thread in the equipment sub for his controller build he has everything pid and scr in one control box.. its a really cool build

[atunguyd Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close atunguyd]

SSR + 500k Potentiometer + Inline Ammeter (optional).

SSR: https://www.botshop.co.za/product/so...ay-ssr-50a-ac/
SSR Heatsink: https://www.botshop.co.za/product/ssr-relay-heatsink/
Potentiometer: https://www.electronics123.co.za/500...5w-152316.html
Ammeter: Something like this: https://www.wish.com/product/5d351e8..._wcB&share=web


This is what I use. I also slipped a 12VDC power brick in the box with a 120mm computer fan to keep it all cool, as well as a toggle switch to turn the whole thing on or off. I still need to mount it in a decent case, but it works. Like a charm.

Might be a good idea to give instructions on how to wire this up and not just a shopping list. Especially if you consider that you are recommending people to hook this up to mains.

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