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  1. #121

    Has anyone tried a no chill in a standard plastic fv?
    I have one of these Mangrove Jacks ones and wonder if i make a stopper (for the bubbler hole) and swirl the red hot wort all over, if it will be okay?
    47823502_0_Img2.jpg

    I was looking at buying the components for a rib-cage copper chiller today but cant find a bending spring... and I don't want to risk doing it without one.

    I have done my last 3 brews by just dumping it(my fv) in a tote filled with water and LOTS of ice packs and bottles of frozen water. It takes about an hour to cool 18L down to 25deg and havent had any issues yet.

    Reading your posts now had me thinking if the extra time and water is really needed, since I could just try and no chill it and pitch the next day.
    For that matter I can put it in my fermentation fridge with my STC set to pitching temp, or is this a bad idea?
    Last edited by CaPunT; 16th September 2020 at 18:52. Reason: typo's

  2. #122
    Quote Originally Posted by CaPunT View Post
    Has anyone tried a no chill in a standard plastic fv?
    I have one of these Mangrove Jacks ones and wonder if i make a stopper (for the bubbler hole) and swirl the red hot wort all over, if it will be okay?
    47823502_0_Img2.jpg

    I was looking at buying the components for a rib-cage copper chiller today but cant find a bending spring... and I don't want to risk doing it without one.

    I have done my last 3 brews by just dumping it(my fv) in a tote filled with water and LOTS of ice packs and bottles of frozen water. It takes about an hour to cool 18L down to 25deg and havent had any issues yet.

    Reading your posts now had me thinking if the extra time and water is really needed, since I could just try and no chill it and pitch the next day.
    For that matter I can put it in my fermentation fridge with my STC set to pitching temp, or is this a bad idea?
    It depends on what type of plastic it is. If its HDPE then it will be fine, PP doesnt handle heat as well.
    If it doesnt mention what it is made of there should be a triangle with a number in, if that number is 2 then its HDPE.

    Just bear in mind it deforms pretty heavily under the heat so it might not look so great afterwards.

  3. #123
    Quote Originally Posted by Rocket-Boy View Post
    It depends on what type of plastic it is. If its HDPE then it will be fine, PP doesnt handle heat as well.
    If it doesnt mention what it is made of there should be a triangle with a number in, if that number is 2 then its HDPE.

    Just bear in mind it deforms pretty heavily under the heat so it might not look so great afterwards.
    I've emptied post boil wort into it 3 times already(not to mention the numerous kits i did with boiling water straight from the kettle), no issues with deforming what so ever.
    It doesn't have a triangle to indicate its specification though

  4. #124
    Yeah what Rocket boy said. I have the same fermenter. I have done no chill in it. Didn't deform at all though. Maybe its thick enough. Maybe it was coz I didn't dare move it for fear that it will warp and the lid wont fit again. EVER. on putting it in the fermentation fridge. That's a HARD NO. All that happens is the whole insulated compartment reaches 60+ and stays there. The fridge has a thermal cutout that stops it. Could leave the door open but then what's the point of moving it there in the first place

  5. #125
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Eastern Cape
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    6
    Quote Originally Posted by JIGSAW View Post
    No-Chill for life
    I'm so glad I discovered, or rather stumbled upon brewing in an Urn, BIAB and No Chill. Life is good! This must be the best beginner's setup.

  6. #126
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Pretoria
    Posts
    1,634
    I've also done no-chill in my fermenter. Two reasons I won't do it again:

    1. Headspace and sealing. It's difficult to get right of the headspace in the fermenter, because it's a big thing. Sealing it is also an issue, although I think it's less of a problem if it's just chilling overnight (I wouldn't worry about it).
    2. I like pouring the wort splashing into the fermenter the next day. I know about all the oxygen-not-needed discussions but I've seen more active and more "steady" fermentations in oxygenated wort, for the pure single reason that there is a larger colony working when you oxygenate (thanks to the aerobic and anaerobic yeast functions).

  7. #127
    Yeah the seal and potential suckbak of air once it cools down with the coppertun fv could be a problem (unlike in a jerry)

    I think i'll just get a jerry from wespak and give the chiller a skip for now. Once cooled, I'll pour the wort into my fv for aeration and fermentation as ususal.

    Thanks Guys

  8. #128
    Quote Originally Posted by BackOffMyBrew View Post
    It is, I'm not faffing with chillers and all that cr@p. I can wait a day to pitch yeast.
    Do you pour boiling hot wort into a seperate 20l bottle and then let it sit and cool before pouring into a fermenter?

    Do you pour the boiling wort into fermenter?

    Sent from my SM-A107F using Tapatalk

  9. #129
    Senior Member JIGSAW's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Cape Town
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    2,330
    Quote Originally Posted by LiquidBread View Post
    Do you pour boiling hot wort into a seperate 20l bottle and then let it sit and cool before pouring into a fermenter?

    Do you pour the boiling wort into fermenter?

    Sent from my SM-A107F using Tapatalk
    That's what most 'No-Chillers' do yes
    The Problem With The World Is That Everyone Is A Few Drinks Behind.!


  10. #130

    Quote Originally Posted by LiquidBread View Post
    Do you pour boiling hot wort into a seperate 20l bottle and then let it sit and cool before pouring into a fermenter?



    Yip! Cools overnight and the next morning I pour half into the FV, dump in the yeast and pour in the rest to 23lt

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