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  1. #71

    Quote Originally Posted by BackOffMyBrew View Post
    Drill holes and use a fine spatter guard, Makro has some nice ones.

    As for sparging I have a roasting rack that came as part of an oven tray, works a treat and the 'feet' prevent it from slipping around

    I'll take pics this weekend when I brew
    aaaah ok, so you're putting the whole bucket "outside" on top of the rack when sparging? Does it not leak/mess ?
    Or is the bucket still slightly within the urn?

    Haha ok enough questions, please share them pics so its clear

  2. #72
    Senior Member JIGSAW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaPunT View Post
    aaaah ok, so you're putting the whole bucket "outside" on top of the rack when sparging? Does it not leak/mess ?
    Or is the bucket still slightly within the urn?

    Haha ok enough questions, please share them pics so its clear
    Cant you use a pulley system above you boil vessel ?

    eg ...
    7.jpg

    EDIT: Check @ 08:50 how this guy is resting his basket on the rim of the kettle ....

    Last edited by JIGSAW; 5th November 2020 at 15:12. Reason: Added Video
    The Problem With The World Is That Everyone Is A Few Drinks Behind.!


  3. #73
    Quote Originally Posted by CaPunT View Post
    aaaah ok, so you're putting the whole bucket "outside" on top of the rack when sparging? Does it not leak/mess ?
    Or is the bucket still slightly within the urn?

    Haha ok enough questions, please share them pics so its clear
    Nope, no leaks at all

  4. #74
    Quote Originally Posted by JIGSAW View Post
    Cant you use a pulley system above you boil vessel ?

    eg ...
    7.jpg

    EDIT: Check @ 08:50 how this guy is resting his basket on the rim of the kettle ....

    I suppose I could - would just need to relocate from my current brewing spot (which is not under a roof and as close to power).
    I may try it with my next brew, but then i'll need to figure out how to sparge all over

    EDIT: only saw the vid after posting. I tried to see exactly what he has but its not clear? Is it like a type of Z bar that he puts in after lifting the bucket out?
    That would make sense though, having 2 or 3 steel brackets that keep the bucket in the urn about 10-15cm down.
    Last edited by CaPunT; 5th November 2020 at 15:29.

  5. #75
    Senior Member JIGSAW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaPunT View Post
    I suppose I could - would just need to relocate from my current brewing spot (which is not under a roof and as close to power).
    I may try it with my next brew, but then i'll need to figure out how to sparge all over

    EDIT: only saw the vid after posting. I tried to see exactly what he has but its not clear? Is it like a type of Z bar that he puts in after lifting the bucket out?
    That would make sense though, having 2 or 3 steel brackets that keep the bucket in the urn about 10-15cm down.
    Sorry for the late reply ...

    but yes, It looks like some sort of "Z" bracket just to keep the basket from slipping ... Im sure a person can then sparge as per normal ?

    EDIT:
    I see in the description THIS - electric-home-brewing-system-240v-biab is the system he is using and the brackets looks like this ....

    Screenshot_44.jpg
    The Problem With The World Is That Everyone Is A Few Drinks Behind.!


  6. #76
    Quote Originally Posted by JIGSAW View Post
    Sorry for the late reply ...

    but yes, It looks like some sort of "Z" bracket just to keep the basket from slipping ... Im sure a person can then sparge as per normal ?

    EDIT:
    I see in the description THIS - electric-home-brewing-system-240v-biab is the system he is using and the brackets looks like this ....

    Screenshot_44.jpg
    Yeah, exactly what i thought they would look like/be. Thanks JIGSAW

    Awesome, a bucket with some(ok many) holes and a bag and 3 brackets should do the trick.
    Else, a proper malt pipe and the brackets

  7. #77
    Yesterday I tried to test my urn with 25L to see how long it takes to boil the water and also check how long it takes to reach about 75⁰. When the water boils, the element switches off and on again in a minute or so. I'm assuming that this would be a problem if trying to maintain a rolling boil? Is the element and thermostat the same as in the Caterpride urns? I was thinking that I need to bypass the thermostat and put a voltage regulator motor speed control on the element. That way I can power up the element at full power. Once the rolling boil is reached, one can dial back the 3kw element to whatever power is needed to maintain a nice rolling boil. In my mind this would work great and even lower the power consumption slightly as well as give way more control than the thermostat would allow.

    What do you think of that idea? Has anyone done something similar, or is there a reason that people aren't doing it? I also don't know if an element likes to work on anything lower than full power, say 60% or whatever is needed. I saw some still builds that use this so bought one yesterday to test. Last night I thought of why it wouldn't work, but couldn't think why not.

    Oh yes, I will also disable the anti boil dry if it's similar to the Caterpride. Should've let Basterfield disable that, but when I placed my order I wasn't even thinking of that, silly I know.
    __________________________________________________ ________________
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  8. #78
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    My urn is set to turn off and on every now and again. That way I maintain temperature high enough to isomerize the hops, and I know it's boiling sterile at least. I don't really like a full rolling boil for a full 60 minutes.

  9. #79
    Quote Originally Posted by Toxxyc View Post
    My urn is set to turn off and on every now and again. That way I maintain temperature high enough to isomerize the hops, and I know it's boiling sterile at least. I don't really like a full rolling boil for a full 60 minutes.
    Do you think it would have a negative impact on efficiency if the elements switches on and off the whole hour of boil?
    __________________________________________________ ________________
    Still learning, please be patient, I've had a few.
    Constructive criticism welcome.



  10. #80

    Quote Originally Posted by RudiC View Post
    Yesterday I tried to test my urn with 25L to see how long it takes to boil the water and also check how long it takes to reach about 75⁰. When the water boils, the element switches off and on again in a minute or so. I'm assuming that this would be a problem if trying to maintain a rolling boil? Is the element and thermostat the same as in the Caterpride urns? I was thinking that I need to bypass the thermostat and put a voltage regulator motor speed control on the element. That way I can power up the element at full power. Once the rolling boil is reached, one can dial back the 3kw element to whatever power is needed to maintain a nice rolling boil. In my mind this would work great and even lower the power consumption slightly as well as give way more control than the thermostat would allow.

    What do you think of that idea? Has anyone done something similar, or is there a reason that people aren't doing it? I also don't know if an element likes to work on anything lower than full power, say 60% or whatever is needed. I saw some still builds that use this so bought one yesterday to test. Last night I thought of why it wouldn't work, but couldn't think why not.

    Oh yes, I will also disable the anti boil dry if it's similar to the Caterpride. Should've let Basterfield disable that, but when I placed my order I wasn't even thinking of that, silly I know.
    Nothing beats it! Gives absolute control of the intensity of the boil to get the rolling boil just how you want it.
    Elements are quite happy at partial power and my SCR unit plugs "in-line" to my urn. Im not too familiar with the PWM setups but I think they do pretty much the same thing for an element.
    Cheers,
    Lang
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    "Dudddde...Hold my beer!".... ; "I wonder what will happen if I ...."

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