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Advice on next APA

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  • #16
    The LHBS also have some ideas for APA or any brews for that matter.
    https://beerguevara.com/product/pale...rain-bill-15l/
    https://beerguevara.com/product/ambe...rain-bill-15l/
    https://beerguevara.com/product/ipa-grain-bill-15l/

    https://www.beerlab.co.za/blogs/recipes

    Ideas to see which hop combo's work in recommended recipes. You can also chop and change on the grainbill. One that works for me is to take the IPA premix grainbill (5.4kg) from BG and I then mix it with another 4kg pale ale malt to make up for my 45litre batch. I do same with the BG American Amber Ale (4.4kg) and add 5kgs pale ale. You can then play around with the hops. Almost any combo will work.

    Edit:
    https://sierranevada.com/blog/pale-ale-homebrew-recipe/
    AlexBrew
    Senior Member
    Last edited by AlexBrew; 26 November 2020, 10:58. Reason: SNPA link added

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    • #17
      Originally posted by groenspookasem View Post
      keep in mind that the time it takes for your wort to chill to ~30c it's extracting hop oils / isomerizing. if you know how long it takes you could slot that in your recipe software, as the temp decreases so too will the isomerization/oil extraction taper, it will affect you balance. i personally remove my spider + hops from the boil once done or add it in for the hopstand.

      0.83 is pretty high, iirc apa is around 0.7ish, i like mine at high 0.6ish whilst staying in the style or you could dump the the style guide and make a nice quaffable 0.5 blondish apa ;-) many bugu/rbr charts exist online, you may find 0.83 high. the grainbill wont "support" the bitterness. yet another reason i like brewfather - scaling of not only malt, but hops too
      Fantastic input! Thanks - if I'm wanting to play with the BU:GU ratios would I be right reduce the bittering charge? Reducing the flame out addition would also reduce aroma etc.?

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Rikusj View Post
        Fantastic input! Thanks - if I'm wanting to play with the BU:GU ratios would I be right reduce the bittering charge? Reducing the flame out addition would also reduce aroma etc.?
        yeah, even one or two ibus lower on the bittering will make an impact on your bu:gu. i wont bother reducing flameout hops, if anything i'd remove the bittering and increase flamout amount :-D

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        • #19
          Right... so I brewed this recipe yesterday and I'm going over all the numbers and I'm getting unstuck with all the various efficiency calcs.

          I calculated the mash efficiency at 80%. Trying to calculate Brewhouse Efficiency from there lands me at 65% based on the BrewersFriend calculator. That's a pretty major drop from the 80% so I'm thinking something got unstuck somewhere?

          The BrewersFriend conversion calculator uses total volume of water used to arrive at PPG / 100% efficiency gravity against a given grain bill (pretty confident in this calc as it's pretty straight forward and agrees with my monkey math in excel).

          The Brewhouse calculator on the other hand ask for volume of wort into the fermenter and then arrives at a completely different PPG / potential gravity answer... using the same grain bill / weights these two calculators arrive at seemingly completely different potential gravity numbers...

          Am I missing something really stupid here?

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          • #20


            **********************
            The Problem With The World Is That Everyone Is A Few Drinks Behind.!

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            • #21
              Not quite sure what you are saying, but I noticed the other day that BrewersFriend has a 'conversion' efficiency which talks about volume of strike water. (ie. excludes losses of wort/ sugars absorbed by the grain)
              I always thought mash efficiency and conversion efficiency was the same thing, being related to the amount of actual drained wort after the mash, but it looks like my typical interpretation of mash efficiency is what BF calls pre-boil efficiency.

              On the mash vs brewhouse, this can be substantially different especially if you have high deadspace, leave a lot of cold break behind, and especially if you use a lot of hops in a hopspider/ bag and pull it out afterward together with a lot of wort.


              EDIT. Okay played around a bit and I think I know what you mean. Doesnt make sense to me either. I must be missing something too.

              Though I think the given PPG is for the actual yield rather than the maximum PPG potential of the grain bill
              Langchop
              Senior Member
              Last edited by Langchop; 30 November 2020, 07:59.
              Cheers,
              Lang
              ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
              "Dudddde...Hold my beer!".... ; "I wonder what will happen if I ...."

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              • #22
                Lol - yeah that was a bit of a rambling post that didn't really come to a point.

                This is the conversion Calc... 80% effeciency based off a max potential gravity of 1.051. This makes sense and aligns with Palmers approach in how to brew.


                This is where I get confused. Brew house effeciency, using same grain bill, calculates 65%, but is now based on max potential gravity of 1.072...



                Should the 100% effeciency max potential gravity not stay the same? Or is this somehow baking in something like increases from boiling etc.?

                All I'm trying to figure out is if I need to focus on improving a part of my process to close that gap in effeciency...

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                • #23
                  I think that specifically is because of the different fluid volumes in scenario 1 versus scenario 2:

                  32.4L (conversion)/23L (brewhouse) X 51 points (conversion) = 71.8 points (brewhouse) [1.072]
                  Cheers,
                  Lang
                  ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
                  "Dudddde...Hold my beer!".... ; "I wonder what will happen if I ...."

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                  • #24
                    Eish, difficult to explain ....

                    Your grist would have given you 1.051 if in a perfect world you got 100% extraction ... you got 80% (Mash Efficiency) which puts you on 1.041 ... which is correct

                    On the BH Efficiency side, they calc 1.072 @ 100% ... meaning ZERO loss, which is impossible, so it's just a starting point for the calculations ....

                    SO, if your loss was 25%, you should end with XL volume into fermenter @ 1.054

                    BUT your loss was ±35%, so you ended with 23L volume into fermenter @ 1.047 ... that puts you on the 65.14 BHE

                    so they give you lower points (ppg) cause you lost some of the sugars(wort) to get you to 23L

                    My BHE is set on 74.5% in my BS software which then states I "should" get around 84% on my usual amount of grain and recipes
                    Screenshot_1.jpg
                    I had a site bookmarked that explains all this nicely, but cant find it
                    The Problem With The World Is That Everyone Is A Few Drinks Behind.!

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                    • #25
                      Thanks for the explanations - I think I'm starting to understand how important hitting your target gravities AND volumes are to efficiency.

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                      • #26
                        Maybe don't get too caught up with the compexities of brewing software.

                        Have a look at :
                        https://cdn2.brewersfriend.com/brewe...grainsheet.pdf

                        It's a suggested data sheet to log your brew day measurements. Once you've done a few brews, you can compare with what you have brewed and how the numbers reflect on the software. From here you can assess where you want to make changes to your recipe on the software, to reflect the expectations of the actual brew. It will take a couple of runs to get the grips of it.

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by AlexBrew View Post
                          Maybe don't get too caught up with the compexities of brewing software.

                          Have a look at :
                          https://cdn2.brewersfriend.com/brewe...grainsheet.pdf

                          It's a suggested data sheet to log your brew day measurements. Once you've done a few brews, you can compare with what you have brewed and how the numbers reflect on the software. From here you can assess where you want to make changes to your recipe on the software, to reflect the expectations of the actual brew. It will take a couple of runs to get the grips of it.
                          Cant believe I am hearing this from the guy who is developing a nice brewing package!

                          But yea, I agree, sometimes just keeping it simple can make the brewday more enjoyable
                          Cheers,
                          Lang
                          ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
                          "Dudddde...Hold my beer!".... ; "I wonder what will happen if I ...."

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                          • #28
                            That's a useful doc - definitely saving that and keeping it simply!

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by StevenD (Slainthe) View Post
                              Have you downloaded the latest Brewdog recipe catalogue yet? It has hundreds of recipes, most of which you can get the ingredients for locally, or else with minor substitutions.

                              If not, here is the link: https://brewdogmedia.s3.eu-west-2.am...Y+DOG+-+V8.pdf
                              This is awesome! Thanks.


                              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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