If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
My water PH is usually between 8-9 here in Cape Town so most of the time I sub some of the base malt for 200g-300g of Acidulated malt just to drop the Ph a bit
The Problem With The World Is That Everyone Is A Few Drinks Behind.!
Ok. Ill start another thread for this......
I've not ventured into the water treatment zone and it looks like its time
Sent from my SM-A515F using Tapatalk
This. I also think it's about time I start doing this. I've always just brewed with tap water and I think it's high time I do something about it. Water treatment is not hard and it's pretty cheap as well, so might as well just get started.
I've been adding brewing salts to my last 5 or so batches - can't really say if its made a difference to the taste - or perhaps my taste buds are to numb to detect the difference. Beer tastes good regardless. .. but coming back to adding brewing salts - it's a bit confusing at first - all the chemical names and all but after a couple of attempts on your software's water profiler you'll get the hang of it quickly. Another thing to considder is that certain brewing salts lowers the ph - which is a good thing. By default, mashed grain achieves a ph of round 5.6 - which is the upper level of desired mash ph. Adding some salts will lower the ph by couple of points - assuming more in the region of 5.2-5.4. I don't have a ph meter - so I'm not sure by how much it drops by.
For those who don't have BeerSmith to do the water calcs, have a look online .. there a spreadsheet called 'EZ water calc' (something like that) - quite simple to use and will give you a quick idea of whats going on.
Then I use the water profiles from Bru'n Water and they have a easy to interpret water profile options to choose from, like dry yellow, balanced yellow, full yellow (dry for hoppy beers, full for malty beers): Image1.jpg
Ok so im brewing this baby now.
1) 50% wheat = 55% efficiency.
Maybe i should have mashed longer.....
2) should i dry hop? Its not time yet Obviously but. Its an ipa so the answer should be yes right?
Ok so im brewing this baby now.
1) 50% wheat = 55% efficiency.
Maybe i should have mashed longer.....
2) should i dry hop? Its not time yet Obviously but. Its an ipa so the answer should be yes right?
Sent from my SM-A515F using Tapatalk
So the rice hulls didn't help?
I dont see any DH in the recipe? i would keep it as is for now?
Do you keg yet? ... could always add hops to the keg if you're not happy.
Just to stir the pot, who was the first guy to come up with white IPA? ... is not just a hoppy wheat beer?
The Problem With The World Is That Everyone Is A Few Drinks Behind.!
[emoji25]thought, its biab. No real need for hulls right...... Wrong!
Yeah i keg now so im going to try that for sure, no dh. Can add to keg if needed.
Must have been during the IPA craze of the early teens! If you can call it an ipa it will sell!
O and onto the yeast. I used T58. Temp range is 15 to 20 on the packet. Anyone with a history lesson for me here? In general keep it low. So im targeting 16.
What do you all think?
Any reason for T58?
I get peppery notes from that yeast and mainly use it in Saison style brews and since I re-pitch wort, a few Blondes and Pales that came out great. Yet to try it with an IPA.
The Problem With The World Is That Everyone Is A Few Drinks Behind.!
Comment