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Thread: Hop Additions

  1. #11

    Quote Originally Posted by SykomantiS View Post
    I would like to think so, but I've not tried to test it back to back. There are various advantages toted in some articles, but like I said, I haven't tested it directly vs a 60min addition.
    I also read the same thing and have tried in it my IRA, it seems to have resulted in a less harsh bitterness. will try it for the next few brews and in my upcoming smoked belgian ale to see if I like the result.

  2. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by HoboSpit View Post
    Do you still stick to a similar schedule when doing something like a SMaSH brew with Cascade or Citra etc? Or do you utilise an earlier boil addition to get the maximum out of your hops?

    I've been putting together a few brews to familiarise myself with some hops a bit better and it seems like earlier boil additions would require less hops to get the same IBUs out, which leaves more over for dry hopping and whirlpool (Aiming to use about 100g per batch)

    By only doing one bittering addition you do use more hops, that why I go for cheaper hops for bittering. try to get a cleaner profile hop.
    However my taste in not sensitive enough to pick up flavours from thye bittering addition.
    Keeping your flavour/aroma hops for end of boil you should need less as your are extracting max flovour comparedf to an earlier addition.
    Everyone must beleive in something, I beleive I'll have another beer

  3. #13
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    I can taste the "type" of bitterness used in beers, if that makes sense. So if I use a resinous hop for bittering even at 60 minutes, I can tell it apart from, say, an earthy hop used for bittering at 60 minutes. This pickup for me is VERY subtle though but it's there, enough for me to be hop-specific when I'm making certain beers like stouts. I made a stout before using a citrus-forward hop, boiled it for 60 minutes thinking "it's just IBUs" but the stout tasted like orange coffee. It was odd.

    So what I do now is use SAB T90 for most of my bittering. It's a blend of 3 relatively balanced hops and I like it in most beer styles. I add it at 30 minutes and then I have a small addition at flameout of whatever flavour I want in the beer. It works fine.

    For sensitive styles like pilsners I like to use my flavour hop for bittering as well though, like in pilsners. A pilsner bittered with the wrong hop can be very weird.

  4. #14
    Senior Member JIGSAW's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Cape Town

    I've gone "old school" again ...

    30|20|10 or 30|15|5 and then maybe a Flameout depending on the brew ... I prefer this as i don't want all my beers to be hop-forward ...

    i also hardly whirlpool and dry hop anymore, unless it's an IPA (Will do in summer again)

    ... for now im done with whirlpool and large dry hops and cube-hop type beers

    Lager|Pilsner styles very little towards the end .. don't want an overly hop taste.
    The Problem With The World Is That Everyone Is A Few Drinks Behind.!

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