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  1. #3661

    Quote Originally Posted by PaBz0r View Post
    Weighed the grains for a Guinness Clone.. tad short on Roasted Barley, still well within where it needs to be. Not sure whether I should pull the trigger today or only brew it tomorrow...

  2. #3662
    Quote Originally Posted by Chris S View Post
    Let us know how it comes out. I'm keen to do a lager soon.
    You say vials. You mean 3x 500ml bottles and 4th 500ml used to make another 2L starter to pitch?
    No, these vials are 28ml

    https://teknachemicals.co.za/product...mm+long+-+28ml

    I cold crash the 2litre starter and then only collect the settlement at the bottom.
    One vial is enough to create a new 2litre starter batch.

  3. #3663
    Quote Originally Posted by JIGSAW View Post
    It's a 2L starter, but he only saves the yeast at the bottom into vials ... the beer on top gets dumped.
    Yip.

  4. #3664
    Quote Originally Posted by Dewald Posthumus View Post
    Nah, don't worry about it, I use Munich Dark, and at 8.5 EBC, it's still within the specifications of a Pilsner or a Helles Lager in any case, you probably used Munich, so you'll be fine. If you used normal Munich it will bring the EBC down to 7.1, which is more in the middle of the style specs. Will turn out to be a lekker beer!
    I used Munich dark 17 SRM - the grainbill's total SRM is 3.7 - which is with spec - 7.4 EBC

  5. #3665
    Quote Originally Posted by AlexBrew View Post
    No, these vials are 28ml

    https://teknachemicals.co.za/product...mm+long+-+28ml

    I cold crash the 2litre starter and then only collect the settlement at the bottom.
    One vial is enough to create a new 2litre starter batch.
    Are you able to jump up from 28ml to 2l?
    I just bought some 500ml jars and so would have preferred 250ml.
    Reference unknown but I can try and find it- 250ml should have 4B cells and to go 10 fold would require 1.25l which is only 40B cells

    I know very little about this though?

    Sent from my SM-A315F using Tapatalk

  6. #3666
    Quote Originally Posted by johncoram89 View Post
    Are you able to jump up from 28ml to 2l?
    I just bought some 500ml jars and so would have preferred 250ml.
    Reference unknown but I can try and find it- 250ml should have 4B cells and to go 10 fold would require 1.25l which is only 40B cells

    I know very little about this though?

    Sent from my SM-A315F using Tapatalk
    You should only jump 10x, but can step multiple times. So go 28ml -> 280ml -> 2.8L etc etc. You can do just keep adding wort if you have a big enough container then you dont need to cold crash or throw away spent wort with yeast in it

  7. #3667
    Quote Originally Posted by johncoram89 View Post
    Are you able to jump up from 28ml to 2l?
    I just bought some 500ml jars and so would have preferred 250ml.
    Reference unknown but I can try and find it- 250ml should have 4B cells and to go 10 fold would require 1.25l which is only 40B cells

    I know very little about this though?

    Sent from my SM-A315F using Tapatalk
    There's a lot of thumbsucking and assuming when calculating yeast starters. Different experiments from different sources show mixing results. e.g. 'they' say yeast slurry can have approx 1 billion cells of yeast per ml ... but could be as high as 5bn/ml. Now this right here is where the assumption starts.
    Dry yeast from Fermentis claim to have a min of 6 billion per gram. Test show that s04, US05 have approx 8bn .. other yeasts from Fermetis as high as 18bn (something like that).

    Here's some reading that I have found most usefull in my understanding:
    http://beersmith.com/blog/2010/12/14...g-beer-part-1/
    http://beersmith.com/blog/2011/01/10...g-beer-part-2/
    https://byo.com/article/pitching-rat...st-techniques/
    https://byo.com/resource/build-a-yeast-starter/

    What I have discovered from past failures is that you must do what works for you. The sooner the active fermentation starts the better. Pitching for pilsners/lagers at low temeratures requires the most yeast to get going. I guess If active fermentation starts within 24hrs you are good to go.
    Last edited by AlexBrew; 22nd May 2021 at 17:54.

  8. #3668
    Thanks for the feedback guys! Will look into it. My baseline knowledge on this is 0. My plan is to make 2lt starters, keep 500ml and pitch the rest. Will try keep the stored yeast for less than 3 months before re-building

    Sent from my SM-A315F using Tapatalk

  9. #3669
    Quote Originally Posted by Jitters View Post
    You should only jump 10x, but can step multiple times. So go 28ml -> 280ml -> 2.8L etc etc. You can do just keep adding wort if you have a big enough container then you dont need to cold crash or throw away spent wort with yeast in it
    Interesting.. think I've discovered my fog about volumes when creating stepped starters. I've always wondered how these volumes worked, when say step 1 create a 1.3 litre starter and step 2 a 1.7 litre .. doh, of course you dump 1.1 litres from step 1. Light bulb moment. Thanks. Must be the Killer Hops's that are making me so clever .. haha

  10. #3670

    Quote Originally Posted by AlexBrew View Post
    Interesting.. think I've discovered my fog about volumes when creating stepped starters. I've always wondered how these volumes worked, when say step 1 create a 1.3 litre starter and step 2 a 1.7 litre .. doh, of course you dump 1.1 litres from step 1. Light bulb moment. Thanks. Must be the Killer Hops's that are making me so clever .. haha
    Lol broke my head as well. Just one last thing the last part to this is inoculation rate. Good calculators will show this but think of it like this. Yeast like plants need space to grow stepping from 1.3L to 1.7L is not going to give you the growth you are looking for.

    There is a minimum space that yeast can occupy while still growing, there is alot of science involved I find it super intresting. My rule of thumb is to step atleast 1L to get the optimum inoculation rate or close enough for me!!

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