What are you brewing?

[BruHaha Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close BruHaha]

Doh: yes, meant 67C .. obviously The Buffalo Theory is a myth..


Ok, so some areas in your mash where at 62 (which might equate to a higher fermentable wort) .. other areas higher..
I try a stir my mash every 15 minutes for that exact reason.

Hmmmm.... Speaking of stirring, this was the 1st time that I did NOT stir every 10/15 mins; only did it once at 30 mins.

[AlexBrew Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close AlexBrew]

if it's stable you can just cold crash, but I personally like to ramp up for a day or two to allow the yeast to clean up after itself some. I don know if it helps tbh but it makes me feel better.

Yea.. I'm not in a hurry to bottle/keg my brew.. and always try to idle it towards the end of fermentation to sort out fermentation by-products, whether they are there or not.
In that video someone posted couple days back - Colorado Brew Talk (something like that) the dude being interviewed has been home brewing for 35 years .. they where discussing Belgian beers and fermentation - and he said he always ramps the temperature towards the end (or keeps it high - said 70F max - 21C).

[AlexBrew Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close AlexBrew]

Hmm.. my previous oslo ferment (pilsner) I let run for 4 days at 25C and then cold crashed... and as you read in the other thread there's a taste that I'm not enjoying.

Even though I wanted this on tap on Saturday (hosting n partykie), I'm thinking I should rather not rush this one and leave it for a week to see if THAT taste is still present.

You might find that that funny taste will dissapear over the next week. I'd bet you your beer will taste nice and crisp in 2 weeks time. Also remember that proper lagering takes months in a conventional sense. Anything less than that time is considdered 'green'. If that taste still persists and has not gone bolder - then you need to look at your hops or grainbill. If 'that' taste has become worse then you need to look at infection..
I don't think oxydation would have manifested itself so soon.. possibly in another month you'll be able to notice - if it's oxidaton.

[JIGSAW Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close JIGSAW]

Agree ....

[Jitters Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Jitters]

Yea.. I'm not in a hurry to bottle/keg my brew.. and always try to idle it towards the end of fermentation to sort out fermentation by-products, whether they are there or not.
In that video someone posted couple days back - Colorado Brew Talk (something like that) the dude being interviewed has been home brewing for 35 years .. they where discussing Belgian beers and fermentation - and he said he always ramps the temperature towards the end (or keeps it high - said 70F max - 21C).

Yeah Belgians yeasts is where I started doing it. First time I ran Trappist high gravity I fermented low and kept it there. It got stuck at 1.02 and tasted incredibly clean, since then for Belgian's at least I start ramping 1C per day after the first 2 days and try and push it up to 25C has been the highest but generally 22C. I got my last blonde down to 1.006 by pushing the temps aggressively.

For Belgian yeasts at least they will stall if the temp is not raised towards the end of fermentation, and I have heard of some of them stalling out for about a week or two and then once you bottle they start back up leading to either bottle bombs or over carbed beers. if you leave it in the fermenter the krausen will completely drop out and once it starts up again will form a brand new krausen. Belgian beer is sneaky.

[AlexBrew Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close AlexBrew]

Thanks for that Jitters ..
I'm planning on brewing the Duvel tripel Hop this Friday .. I have kickstarted my 3rd and last yeast starter (not going to bother with a 4th - according to Gareth a once-off 2 litre starter is enough) this afternoon after cold crashing the previous for a day and a bit. Not all yeast has managed to cake down at that stage ..but I decanted say 1.7litres into a 2litre plastic bottle and placed that in the freezer for cold crashing, hoping to collect some yeast by Friday. I will also collect some yeast for future use from today's starter. I'm hoping for end of high krausen on Friday am or when ever that day .. prob will pitch by 4pm after te brew.
I have to say that the fumes from this starter is very alcoholic smelling - different to the US05, S04 and the W34/70 I have done in the past.. this is different - very noticeable, nice smelling.

[Toxxyc Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Toxxyc]

I've got a blonde in the fermenter for my brother in law, running a little experiment on the fermenter. I've got one of those Spiedel fermenters, the 30l one, and what makes it "unique" is the fact that the fermenter can seal completely. The lid at the top of the fermenter seals completely water and airtight, and it comes with a cap for the top of the lid (where you stick the bung and airlock in) as well.

So what I did was pour the boiling wort in there, sealed it up and then when pitching time came I just opened the lid's lid and poured in the yeast. And then sealed it again. This thing built and held A LOT of pressure, way more than I expected overnight. Next up I slowly unscrewed the lid's lid to the point where I could just-just hear a tiny stream of CO2 escaping. That means the contents is under pressure - so I'm fermenting under pressure.

It also got me thinking - if I can modify the tap (that screws on, it fits both the outlet and the lid), this one here: https://www.beerplus.co.za/product/outlet-tap/1667/194 I can build myself a really nice pressure fermentation vessel. So that's exactly what I'm going to try and do!

[Jitters Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Jitters]

I've got a blonde in the fermenter for my brother in law, running a little experiment on the fermenter. I've got one of those Spiedel fermenters, the 30l one, and what makes it "unique" is the fact that the fermenter can seal completely. The lid at the top of the fermenter seals completely water and airtight, and it comes with a cap for the top of the lid (where you stick the bung and airlock in) as well.

So what I did was pour the boiling wort in there, sealed it up and then when pitching time came I just opened the lid's lid and poured in the yeast. And then sealed it again. This thing built and held A LOT of pressure, way more than I expected overnight. Next up I slowly unscrewed the lid's lid to the point where I could just-just hear a tiny stream of CO2 escaping. That means the contents is under pressure - so I'm fermenting under pressure.

It also got me thinking - if I can modify the tap (that screws on, it fits both the outlet and the lid), this one here: https://www.beerplus.co.za/product/outlet-tap/1667/194 I can build myself a really nice pressure fermentation vessel. So that's exactly what I'm going to try and do!

You can also buy gas and liquid posts that will install on there

Amazon.com: 304 Stainless Steel Ball Lock Adapter Post Beer Keg Pressure Relief Valve Accessory(Gas + Liquid): Home & Kitchen

I got these two but any two will do really. then you can do closed transfers post fermentation of semi carbonated beer if you get a spundlng valve and floating dip tube.
Good luck. My initial thought was to install the above to on a bucket and then do closed transfers to my corny keg but the bucket lid blew off at 1PSI

maybe I should also get a spiedel fermenter to test this out.
How much PSI do you think they can hold?

[Toxxyc Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Toxxyc]

I have no idea, but it's a pretty fat plastic and I was surprised to see the amount of pressure it holds. I'd say 5 to 8 PSI easy. I don't have a pressure thing to test it with, TBH.

[TheGregness Member Find all posts View Profile Close TheGregness]

I've got a blonde in the fermenter for my brother in law, running a little experiment on the fermenter. I've got one of those Spiedel fermenters, the 30l one, and what makes it "unique" is the fact that the fermenter can seal completely. The lid at the top of the fermenter seals completely water and airtight, and it comes with a cap for the top of the lid (where you stick the bung and airlock in) as well.

I recently also got one of those. Now before you ruin the tap, how about this:

The bung for the airlock fits into that lid. Ordinarily, on the outside. It also fits on the inside, upside down, meaning that it could drop in but if you push it high enough into that cavity and the pressure builds, it gets securely wedged there.Then, instead of the airlock, you might be able to wedge a post into that bung. Might... it will take some experimentation and I might do the same myself and see if I can come up with something because I gotta be honest, that snub nose pressure fermentor is a dream and I currently have a pilsner lagering in it.

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I have no idea, but it's a pretty fat plastic and I was surprised to see the amount of pressure it holds. I'd say 5 to 8 PSI easy. I don't have a pressure thing to test it with, TBH.

If I remember on the weekend, I will try find a way to check the pressure with a spunding.

[Rocket-Boy Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Rocket-Boy]

I recon with ball lock posts you could make most fermenters of that style into pressure fermenters and do closed transfer.
I know some people have used those stainless conical buckets with a silicone gasket to do the same.

[Toxxyc Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Toxxyc]

I recently also got one of those. Now before you ruin the tap, how about this:

The bung for the airlock fits into that lid. Ordinarily, on the outside. It also fits on the inside, upside down, meaning that it could drop in but if you push it high enough into that cavity and the pressure builds, it gets securely wedged there.Then, instead of the airlock, you might be able to wedge a post into that bung. Might... it will take some experimentation and I might do the same myself and see if I can come up with something because I gotta be honest, that snub nose pressure fermentor is a dream and I currently have a pilsner lagering in it.

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If I remember on the weekend, I will try find a way to check the pressure with a spunding.

This is a good idea, I didn't think of that. The hole in that bung is pretty fat as well so a post or something should be able to fit nicely. I'll give that a shot, thanks!

[Rocket-Boy Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Rocket-Boy]

that snub nose pressure fermentor is a dream and I currently have a pilsner lagering in it.

It sure is, my snubnose is one of my favourite bits of brewing kit. Mine is sadly empty at the moment, but my grain arrived yesterday so tomorrow will be brew day in between tons of online meetings.
Bowtie also arrived so its going to be my first proper pressure fermentation, I did the last two under pressure too but I was mostly just guessing by venting every now and then, trying to squeeze the sides to get an idea of how much pressure is in there.

[PaBz0r Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close PaBz0r]

Sounds like fun till you have beer on the ceiling let us know how it goes!

[AlexBrew Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close AlexBrew]

Brewing this big one today..
DTH.jpg